African knitwear designs pay homage to black culture

Woodson, a Ph.D. scholar from Harvard, was disturbed about the lack of black history in our educational system during the 1920s. He also noted that the mention of black history often focused on the inferior social positions they held and slavery. He worked, instead, to bring light to the many wonderful contributions of black people to our country's rich cultural, scientific and political fabric.

The soon-to-be released pattern book "Knitting Out of Africa: Inspired Sweater Designs" (Interweave Press, $24.95) offers knitwear as homage to black cultural traditions. Danish designer Marianne Isager brings the beauty and richness of African-inspired textiles, basket designs and carpets to the American knitter. Fabulous designs showcase the traditional geometric and animal patterns using finger-weight yarn.

Sixteen patterns and charts for adult sweaters include complicated knitting techniques. Entrelac, double knitting, intarsia, domino and Fair Isle will offer challenges to the more advanced knitter. Isager has worked the techniques into both traditional designs and highly contemporary styles that are truly works of fiber art. She offers inspiration and helpful hints, including detailed instruction for each technique used, to create your own African-inspired sweaters and vests. The patterns are well written with clear diagrams and charts.

Inspired by visits to the British Museum in London, Isager traveled to Africa to research the textiles firsthand. I was a bit disappointed that the book couldn't offer us the background of each African regional motif, but it was clear that this author was more intent on the translations than the history.

A master of the knitted stitch, Isager expertly uses the yarn to represent woven textiles called Shoowa from the Congo. There designers created patterns and were often made famous for the beautiful geometric patterns. Isager uses entrelac and domino techniques to mimic the patterns and embroidery of traditional textiles. The entrelac and domino techniques build knitted fabric on a diagonal rather than a vertical stitch and row method.

Slip-stitch knitting techniques are used for the Asante sweater. Inspired by block printed collages, these designs use finger-weight yarn and thick yarn with the slip stitches to give the illusions of printed motifs.

Intarsia, or knitted areas of different colors, is used to reproduce the woven carpet strips of Sierra Leone. Offset strips give the construction of the sweater panache.

Stranded two-color knitting, or Fair Isle, helps to create African patterns from Mali, Zimbabwe and Nigeria. Beautifully done in the rich, earthy tones of mud, reed baskets and fine wood carvings, these sweaters have a classic beauty that knitters will find hard to resist with contemporary touches such as zippers and side-to-side construction methods.

Finally, double knitting techniques are cleverly used to create reversible vests of animal prints. Light areas appear as dark areas on the reverse side of the knitted fabric when one color is carried across one row and worked on the next.

My fingers itch to tackle one of Isager's creations. I can see each of them worn with jeans or even a suede skirt. You'll want to get your order in at your favorite local yarn store for a copy of this unique and beautifully done collection of African-inspired knitwear. Bravo to Isager for giving us something so wonderful.

KUDOS

Congratulations to the following winners of Michaels Yarn Event competition Jan. 29: Fastest "knifty knitter" is Corry McKeon, and fastest crocheter is Kathy Clark.

Catherine Hollingsworth, interior designer, artist and professional knitter, has lived in Alaska for 17 years. A past president of Knitters of the North, she currently designs knitwear patterns for publication. To reach her, e-mail twosticks@adnmail.com.

TEXTILE ARTS SHOW & TELL is an evening of quilting, knitting, crocheting, cross-stitching and needlepointing for military spouses sponsored by the Armed Services YMCA of Alaska from 6 to 8 p.m. Wednesday in Building 655, Warrior Zone on Fort Richardson. For more information, call Judy Atkins at 384-9622.