Play readers have voted Al Levinsohn as Best Chef for the cuisine and atmosphere at his flagship restaurant, Kincaid Grill. But his newest restaurant, City Diner, has proved to be his biggest challenge yet.
“I am really interested in getting back to basics with this concept,” said Levinsohn, 44, on a walk-through of the operation under construction. “The culinary trend over the last decade has been complexity, but I am ready to shift gears and get back to my culinary roots with simplistic, honest cooking.”
City Diner is a “modern-day” version of a vintage diner, still offering fast, made-from-scratch comfort foods but with higher-quality ingredients in an updated atmosphere. The new design includes a long counter, booths, an open kitchen with a silver, retro motif. Black and white tile and an oversized clock will complete the exterior facade.
The diner is supposed to open for lunch and dinner, then eventually for breakfast, and will feature ribs, burgers, sandwiches and roasted meats.
“The Kincaid Grill is well-established now thanks to a great staff, so I was ready to refocus my energies on the new operation,” Levinsohn said.
Chef Al, as he’s known around town, wears many hats in a day: TV personality, entrepreneur, philanthropist, mentor, culinary enthusiast, and even courier.
“The Kincaid Grill has expanded into in-flight catering (for private and corporate flights) which means a lot of coordination and travel, but it gives us a chance to showcase some of Alaska’s best products to many international (travelers),” Levinsohn said. He noted that the menu usually includes fresh seafood and specialty meats and game.
Levinsohn has also received countless professional accolades, including several gold medals from national competitions, and his Wednesday morning cooking show on KTUU, Channel 2, profiles his popular recipes.
Levinsohn’s culinary roots were planted 20 years ago when he opened the Clarion Hotel as executive chef. After stints at the Alyeska Prince Hotel and the Glacier Brewhouse, Levinsohn turned his sights on opening his own place, taking over the beloved Gesine’s space on the corner of Jewel Lake and Raspberry roads.
“Gesine’s had a dedicated following, so we had big shoes to fill, but I feel like we have fulfilled our mission of providing a great upscale neighborhood eatery.”
Although Levinsohn bypassed culinary school for the traditional chef apprenticeship, he doesn’t think he missed any crucial training. “I was lucky to have excellent chef mentors in the kitchens I worked and to be handed an executive chef’s position at the age of 23 proves that. I don’t necessarily look for someone with a culinary degree for my own staff. It is more about attitude and how willing they are to learn.”
His earliest inspiration was a family friend who cooked on the North Slope.
“With limited ingredients and the most challenging environment, this guy turned out comfort food that really kept those guys going in tough surroundings,” Levinsohn said. “He always told me to keep it simple — that the best food can be cooked around a campfire.”
And what advice can Levinsohn give aspiring chefs?
“Eat out as much as you can afford. It’s a great training ground and will expose you to what other chefs are doing,” he said. “And don’t shy away from ethic restaurants — experimentation with spice and style can easily be incorporated into mainstream dishes.
“(And) invest in a good pair of shoes and be ready for killer hours,” he added, “but follow your passion and it won’t even seem like work.”
Daily News food reviewer Amy Green is assistant professor in the Department of Culinary Arts and Hospitality at University of Alaska Anchorage. She can be reached at agreen@adnmail.com
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