Anchorage Daily News
 

Thrills and spills
Soup and service upstage sandwiches at Urban Greens

By Rebecca Palsha
Daily News correspondent

(09/04/08 04:59:42)

I may be banned from Urban Greens Subs and Salads. Even if I'm not, I may never be able to show my face there again. It's a shame too, because this downtown eatery is a gem.

Arriving for my first visit with my friend Veronica and a growling stomach, I sidled up to the cash register to peruse the menu on the wall behind the bright-orange counter.

This place is a happening hipster habitat. Bright lime-green walls loaded with artist fare. A handful of tall tables for dining. The guys behind the counter wear white T-shirts and jeans and are super-indie. You can watch as they create your sandwich.

This place specializes in traditional lunch fare, and we were in desperate need of sandwiches and soup. I settled on a whole Bootlegger Club ($7.95) with turkey, pastrami, mortadella with Swiss cheese lettuce, tomato, onion and Russian dressing. My friend picked a curried chicken salad sandwich ($7.95), homemade chicken salad with lettuce and tomato. We also both ordered a cup of Tai Chicken soup ($2.95).

After paying, we made a beeline for a table, thinking we'd better beat the lunch crowd. No need to worry, though: It seems most people either get orders to go or have the restaurant bicycle the food to their downtown offices.

A waitress quickly brought out our orders on square white porcelain dishes. The smell was heavenly. The milky-colored broth had coconut milk, basil, lemongrass, all-white chicken pieces and the most gorgeous fat slices of mushrooms I've seen in restaurant soup in a long time. The soup was absolutely loaded with those soft, delicious mushrooms. I should have ordered the big bowl ($4.95). After such a great soup experience, I was eager to dig into the sandwich -- and here is where the tragedy begins.

Let's say I was eager, maybe a little too eager. After trying to rearrange my sandwich to get my mouth around the hoagie, the smattering of meats and the huge slices of tomatoes and lettuce -- bam! -- I squirt out all the vegetables. Floor salad.

I tried my best to clean up the mess, but really all I did was smear around the Russian dressing on the floor. What was left of the sandwich was good, upstaged by the soup but still enjoyable.

On my next lunch visit, I went with a whole roast beef sandwich ($6.95), which came with thin-sliced meat, cheddar cheese, horseradish sauce, lettuce, tomato and onion. Veronica picked the tuna salad sandwich ($7.95). It's traditional tuna salad with lettuce, tomato and onion. The soup choice was the same. "Soooup," Veronica purred. "I'll definitely take a cup."

Co-owner Tamar Ben-Yosef, who opened the place with her chef boyfriend, Noam Schulgasser, told me the soup is extremely popular.

"For the time being, there are no plans on changing it," Ben-Yosef said, at least until winter.

I dug in.

Dug a little too deep.

Spoosh.

The entire cup, of hot, hot soup, was now on my lap. Mushrooms everywhere.

This is the point at which I tried to be discreet, but how could anyone miss the huge mess I made of myself and the restaurant?

I swear I am usually a very put-together person. I blame the soup for my overeagerness.

The entire staff came to my rescue, offering up buckets of soapy hot water and white cloth towels with which to clean myself up. After coming back from the bathroom, I found my mess had been replaced with a clean place setting and a fresh cup of soup. I appreciate it when restaurants make sure your visit ends well.

I ate the rest of my meal with soggy pants, using my rain coat to hide my disgrace.

Again, I felt the sandwich was upstaged by the soup. I wish the horseradish sauce had more of a kick and was less milky. I also would have preferred a different type of cheese, although I never asked if I could substitute. The meat was good and not fatty, as can sometimes happen with roast beef. The bread is bought fresh every morning.

On my next visit I'd like to try the Sicilian sandwich ($7.95), with fresh mozzarella, salami, tomato, roasted peppers and basil, drizzled with balsamic vinaigrette, or the vegetarian ($6.95), with homemade hummus, spicy harissa, cucumber, tomato and onion. There are also about six salad options, ranging from a traditional Caesar to something with a bit more flair, such as the Tahini Salad ($9.95) with lettuce, cherry tomatoes, kalamata olives, cabbage, sunflower seeds, onions, pita chips and lemon tahini dressing. Chicken can be added to any salad for an additional $2.50. Ben-Yosef said the dressings are all made on-site.

If you're looking for fast, healthier lunchtime options, this is a great little spot. If you work downtown, the bicycle-delivery option is a nice touch. Just be sure to have extra napkins if you order the Thai chicken soup.


Got a restaurant tip, a new menu, a favorite dish or a chef change? Send an e-mail to jrogers@adn.com.


Urban Greens Subs and Salads

Location: 304 G St.

Hours: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Friday

Phone: 276-0333

Want to rave or pan? Write your own review of this restaurant or any other recently reviewed place at play.adn.com/dining.

 


Copyright © The Anchorage Daily News (www.adn.com)