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You would be hard-pressed to argue that Anchorage needs more Mexican restaurants. Most neighborhoods have a family-owned spot or are close to a local empire such as Don Jose's, Gallo's or Taco King. Add national chains such as Qdoba and Taco del Mar to the mix and you can't go more than a couple blocks without rolling into a burrito builder.
One of the newest eateries to throw its sombrero into the ring is Serrano's Mexican Grill, open about two months. Owner Josh Picasso said his restaurant has a commitment to freshness and authenticity that makes it different. "Everything is made from scratch; it's all from my mom's recipes," Picasso said. "The way we cook it and the flavor are 100 percent Mexican." He said Serrano's also focuses on keeping things healthy by avoiding lard and by grilling its meats. The restaurant's interior is warm with muted lighting, a wood floor and Diego Rivera prints on the walls. The open kitchen features a high-backed island and is separated from the dining room by a waist-high counter that runs nearly the length of the room. The menu features Mexican dishes such as quesadillas ($4.95), tacos ($2.95) and flautas ($7.75) along with American standards such as a Caesar salad ($4.25) and burgers ($6.95-$7.95). The meat choices for most dishes: asada (steak strips), barbacoa (shredded beef), carnitas (shredded pork), lengua (beef tongue) and pollo (chicken) are listed only in Spanish on the menu, a potential hurdle for some diners. A friend and I recently took a trip to Serrano's for a late lunch. It was a weekday, and there were few customers in the restaurant. We started with the ceviche appetizer ($6.95), fish marinated in lime juice with diced tomatoes, onion, cilantro and peppers. The serving bowl was big, and we couldn't wait to dig into it. Unfortunately, we had to. The server mistakenly dropped our chips off at the wrong table, and it took a minute for him to figure it out. Chips in hand, we found that the dish's small pieces of fish sometimes got lost in the mix of veggies, but the flavor was spot on. I ordered the Serrano's Burrito with carnitas ($7.75). The tightly wrapped flour tortilla had a mix of beans, cheese, onions and cilantro and came with dollops of sour cream, guacamole and rice and beans on the side. Even with all that was going on, the flavor of the grilled pork stood out, and I added some heat with salsa from the self-serve station. My friend picked up the enchilada dinner ($7.75) and opted for one chicken and one ground beef enchilada (cheese was also an option). The corn tortillas were topped with a red sauce that had a dark, smokiness that impressed both of us. He ordered a horchata to wash it down, but it didn't arrive with our food and we had to ask for it. Once served, he commented on the sweet flavor of the drink's combination of rice, cinnamon, sugar and vanilla. I took a different friend along for a late lunch that weekend. I was looking to explore more on the menu and hoping the service would be sharper. My friend went for the mucho macho dinner ($7.75), a choice of meat with flour or corn tortillas and a side of rice and refried beans. Picasso said he recommends this dinner to first-time customers because the flavors of the meats can shine without the competition of other ingredients. My friend chose the carne asada, and we were both taken with the meat's juiciness and fresh-off-the-grill taste. I picked barbacoa for my torta ($7.25), a sandwich made with avocado, tomatoes, and shredded lettuce. The meat was tender, and the sandwich was kept moist by a light spread of refried beans. The tortas I've had before were served on firm French bread, but Serrano's was built on a puffy, soft roll that was a welcomed variation. It came with a side of garlic fries that were a perfect complement, although I eschewed ketchup in favor of the hot and thick "911" salsas that deliver a heat true to their name. Time will tell if Serrano's is the missing piece in Anchorage's Mexican market, but its prices and serving sizes are on par with established venues, and its focus on low-fat techniques and flavor-rich dishes should win it followers.