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If you long for a taste of the Big Apple in the Last Frontier, then Geno & Sal's New York Grill & Pizza is for you. Patrons of Chilkoot Charlie's may already be familiar with co-owner Sal Addonisio.
Inspired by his Italian mother's cooking, he trained in New York and has 30 years of restaurant experience, including at the grill inside Chilkoot Charlie's that bears his name. Geno Faulk worked alongside Sal at Koot's before partnering with him for this venture inside the South Side Bingo Hall that opened in October. The menu features New York-style eats such as strombolis ($9), cold and hot sub sandwiches ($9.75 to $11) and burgers ($8.50 to $13.50). All specialty pizzas are 18-inchers and run $18 to $24. Make-your-own pizzas come with cheese and cost $9.50 for a 14-inch or $17 for a 20-inch with 75 cents for each additional topping. A measure of a good pizza spot is its delivery service. I tested Geno and Sal's by placing an order for delivery during rush hour. My 18-inch pies arrived piping hot and on time 45 minutes later. Dense with toppings, the pizzas were surprisingly heavy when the driver handed them over. I paid the bill and closed the door, eager to dig in, but a knock interrupted me. The driver returned with a bonus he almost forgot to deliver: a takeout container with a handwritten note, "Doughnuts. Let me know what you think. Thanks, Sal." I ordered anonymously, so it wasn't my professional opinion the owner wanted. I tried a slice of the Works pizza ($22) first. The mushrooms, onions, pepperoni, black olives, Italian sausage, ground beef, ham and mozzarella cheese were piled high. Lurking underneath was a house-made sauce with roasted garlic and Thai basil. The crust was crisp with a few bubbles baked in and light enough to fold in half New York style. Its fantastic flavor was due in part to the dough Sal said he rolls every day. The finishing touches were olive oil and roasted rosemary garlic brushed on the crust. Yum. Chris' chicken ranch pie ($20) had the same crust topped with ranch sauce, mozzarella cheese, diced tomatoes and breaded chicken. I thought the chicken would be grilled, but the crisp chunks were tasty. The tomatoes were fresh, and there was plenty of cheese baked to golden gooey excellence. "Moose's Tooth can't be the best pizza every year," Addonisio said. "I am on a quest to beat them." The doughnuts were large -- two filled the takeout container -- making it hard for the sweetness of the cinnamon sugar to keep up with the amount of dough. The flavor was good, but they would have made even better doughnut holes. I went to the grill for lunch later in the week. The counter has cases full of garlic knots ($5), rice balls (rice, butter, Parmesan, garlic, green peas and Black Forest ham shaped into a ball, breaded, deep-fried and served with marinara sauce for $5) and zeppoles (fried pastries sprinkled with powered sugar 10 for $5), and the empty bingo hall had enough tables to seat a hockey team or two plus family and friends. I ordered the Big E sandwich ($11). The barbecue brisket sub dripped with slightly sweet slaw and tart pickles, and the flavors were wonderfully complementary. The slow-cooked meat was rubbed in Sal's secret spices and cooked until tender and juicy. The sandwich was served on French baguette with chips or fries. I didn't get a chance for a third trip, but I was eyeing the Inside-out Cheeseburger, a half-pounder stuffed and topped with American cheese ($9) and Nicki's steak bites, tri-tip steak in Sal's secret marinade, grilled and smothered with peppercorn gravy and served with a sliced toasted baguette ($11.50). Fuggeddaboudit -- I can't decide. I'll be back.