With a name that sounds more like a dining category than a restaurant, Thai and Chinese Cuisine goes straight to the point. The former Thai-titled eatery is now showing off a menu split between Thai and Chinese dishes. I was curious to find out if it was just a gimmick to draw diners or based on kitchen know-how.

I made my first trip for a weekday lunch with a friend. There was only one other group inside, and we had our pick of booths and tables. As she handed us menus, our pleasantly chatty server told us the Mongolian barbecue buffet advertised on the front of the building was discontinued because of broken equipment.

Glancing at the Thai appetizer menu, we skipped over fresh spring rolls and fried egg rolls ($7.95) sa-tay chicken ($8.95) in favor of the stuffed chicken wings ($8.95). The two fried wings were stuffed with clear noodles, chicken and cabbage and sliced in thirds.

The fried skin was crispy, and the mix tasted great with a dose of Thai sweet and sour sauce. A tasty hybrid of fried chicken and a spring roll, it came as no surprise when our server told us it was one of the more popular dishes on the menu.

I was drawn to the list of lunch specials served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. The Thai menu ($7.95 or $8.95 for shrimp) came with an egg roll and steamed or fried rice. The dishes ranged from curries (red, green or yellow) to noodle dishes (pad ze ew, kour gai) and stir fries. There were two Chinese menus with the same prices ($7.95 or $8.95 for shrimp).

One came split with a serving of sweet and sour pork, the other just featured the entree of choice. Both included an egg roll and choice of steamed or fried rice. There were plenty of options, including Mongolian and broccoli beef, chicken chow mein and kung pao chicken.

I decided on the almond chicken/sweet and sour pork combo. I got equal servings of both with a cup of steamed rice dividing them on the plate. The chicken came with a good portion of sliced green peppers and slivers of onion and had a mellow, smoky flavor. The pork was battered, fried and topped with bright-red sweet and sour sauce. The outside was thin and crispy and the meat moist with the sauce lending a nice flavor. My egg roll was stuffed with peppery pork and was a tasty complement to the meal.

My friend picked tofu drunken noodle from the Thai lunch special menu. The wide, flat noodles came with a good serving of tender tofu, green and red peppers, fried egg and broccoli. The taste was rich with a hint of basil.

A couple days later I phoned in a pickup dinner for myself and a different friend. I was told it would be ready in 15 minutes, but I tried squeezing in an errand and ended up running a little late. I got a nice call from a server who was worried my order might get cold.

The food was still warm when I got home and smelled good too. Going off a comment the server had made on my first trip, I ordered som tum, a green papaya salad. Prepared either Thai- or Laotian-style with varying amounts of fish sauce, the papaya is grated into slices that are about five inches long and as thick as grated cheese. Also in the mix are chunks of tomato and chili flakes. I like the dish served spicy and when asked, requested that a whole pepper be used. Heat lingered on my taste buds after a bite of the salty-sweet salad, but it didn't overpower the dish.

My friend ordered the tofu and veggie pad Thai ($9.95). There was plenty of broccoli, carrots and fried egg mixed in with the chunks of tofu and orange noodles. It had a smoky flavor I also tasted in my almond chicken that I've never had with the pad Thai. It turned my friend off but was enjoyable to me.

I had the sesame chicken ($10.95). The chunks of chicken were lightly breaded, covered in sauce and sprinkled with sesame seeds. Less breading kept it from feeling as heavy as New Sagaya's, and the meat was juicy and tasty.

Thai and Chinese lives up to its name. The staff is warm and attentive with offerings from both sides of the menu equaling dishes from local restaurants specializing in those cuisines.