I'm drinking a 2008 Chardonnay -- wow. It's so fresh and bright, it's an absolute delight. Argentina's grape harvest is a full six months ahead of us, so they pick grapes in January and February.

The 2008 Tilia just arrived and man, is it juicy. Tilia is the value line from the Catena clan. Produced at Vina Esmarelda in eastern Mendoza from 60 year-old Chardonnay vines, 40 percent of it gets five months of oak aging. You get a great nose of bright citrus fruits; sharp and poignant with a trace of butter.

The mouth is sweet, clean and juicy on entry. The fruit profile is tropical citrus with a silky mid-pallet richness. Lengthy and eminently satisfying, it will be perfect with this summer's salmon. Costs about $13.