I didn't have to whistle to get the Alaska Railroad train to stop for me and my son Sunday afternoon. We were two of about 50 people who had spent the glorious, cloudless, almost-scorching summer day checking out the Spencer Glacier area of Chugach National Forest. Round about 4:45 p.m., the Alaska Railroad train, complete with elegant double-decker car, rolled to a stop at our rustic little depot in the wilderness. Known as Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop, the recently built outpost is a civilized jumping-off point for a semi-wilderness experience nine miles from the nearest pavement.

My son and I had caught the train at Portage, lured by the railroad's special two-for-one fare for Alaska residents.

We got off in a broad glacial valley, with classic muscular green Chugach mountains rising on either side, still etched here and there with the white of last winter's snow.

A hundred and twenty years ago, Spencer Glacier covered the valley floor almost to the railroad tracks. Now roughly three miles away, the glacier fuels a swift, broad conveyor belt of gray water, the Placer River, which empties into Turnagain Arm.

As a cooling glacial breeze blew down the valley, we walked up the gentle 1.3-mile gravel trail to the lake created by the melting glacier. We were delighted to discover mini-icebergs blown within easy reach on the shallow, muddy shore. My son held a sizable chunk of ice above his head in triumph, his bare feet turning to ice in the glacial water, while dad fiddled with the camera.

During my 29 years here, and many a wilderness outing, I've never had lunch in a more impressive spot. (No doubt, the 80-degree sunshine had something to do with my rave review.)

I was pleased to learn that the Forest Service and Alaska Railroad plan four more whistle stop depots in this valley south of Portage. A network of trails will connect the whistle stops, so hikers can roam the area well away from the railroad tracks.

Finishing the trail network could take as long as 20 years, due to the slow pace of funding, according to the forest ranger who led Sunday's hike to the lake.

To which I say: 20 years is about 18 years too long for such a knockout of a project. It's an eco-friendly way to open Alaska's wilds to more people. As much as Alaskans fight about wilderness access proposals, this is one case where most everybody should be comfortable going full steam ahead.