Diners dug enthusiastically into plates of meatballs and used both hands to take healthy swigs out of 32-ounce schooners of beer ($6.75). I felt pleasantly transported to a simpler, more carefree era.
I took a quick peek around the establishment while the servers set up a table and found myself winding my way through four separate dining rooms, apparently tacked on as business grew and demand swelled. A well-stocked salad bar ($6.75 for one trip, $8.95 for unlimited) caught my eye with its bountiful array of toppings and crisp lettuces.
The specials board touted a limoncello pasta ($14.95) made with the liqueur of the same name and an autumn salad ($6.75) featuring apples, pears, pecans, grapes, cheddar cheese and an apple vinaigrette. I was pleased to see a pizza place with bistro-worthy specials and a willingness to get creative.
Owner John Riblett concocts unique dishes for the increasingly well-traveled palates of Eagle River residents. He's always on the lookout for new combinations and eager to expand the restaurant's repertoire. His energy is astounding, considering that Riblett works 80-90 hours a week at his restaurant. He said he's kept up the grueling schedule for the 30 years Pizza Man has been open.
"The only way to ensure consistency and quality control is to be here myself, from open to close," Riblett said.
The menu has hot and cold submarine sandwiches (whole $8.95, half $5.95). The hot combo features salami, pepperoni, Canadian bacon, provolone, tomatoes and pizza sauce. The chicken parmigiana beckons with a siren song of melted cheese and tomato sauce. Pizza Man even offers gyros ($7.75) and lobster salad sandwiches ($8.95) for the curious palate.
The entree menu has something for everyone, with add-ons and different sauces available. Choices range from simple spaghetti ($10.95) to lobster ravioli with brandy cream sauce ($17.95). The pizza offerings include 30 toppings, smoked clams and three different types of olives among them.
The chef's mistake ($22.00 for a medium) is not for the light-hearted. Canadian bacon, pepperoni, sausage, onions, olives, peppers, mushrooms, pineapple, tomatoes, jalapenos, anchovies and shrimp all crowd onto one pizza crust's real estate.
We started off with an appetizer of Italian sausage and meatballs ($6.50), and I decided on the penne pasta with chicken in a gorgonzola cream sauce ($16.95). Each dinner comes with one trip to the salad bar and garlic bread, which makes for a generous meal.
The sausage and meatballs were swathed in a perfectly seasoned sauce. It had a little bit of heat and plenty of flavor, a lovingly hand-crafted accent to the meatballs and two types of sausages. Real mozzarella completed the comfort-food effect.
Everywhere I looked, groups of people were thoroughly and happily engrossed in the act of dining, drinking and talking.
The entrees arrived with baskets of buttery garlic bread and all conversation ceased at my table. My pasta was fantastic. Little florets of broccoli and tender strips of chicken intermingled with the tangy gorgonzola sauce and pasta. Looking around, my dining companions were similarly satisfied.
The service was attentive, friendly and efficient. It was obvious that many of the diners are Pizza Man regulars.
I ordered a spicy hot pizza ($17.75 for a medium) to go before I left. It was still early, and I knew I would be craving pizza before the night was over.
The pie scented the car with sausage and spices the entire way home. Despite my bursting stomach, I had to take a bite while it was still hot. Pepperoni, hot sausage, mushrooms and jalapeno peppers make an inspired combination for those who love bold flavors. The crust was a happy medium between thick and thin and had just the right amount of chewiness. As advertised the pizza packed a kick.
Pizza Man is good, really good, and it has Riblett to thank for his unceasing devotion to rigorous standards. He doesn't remember how the schooners got their start, but I have a feeling it came about as a reward for a hard day's work. Whatever the occasion, this is the perfect place to get festive.
Pizza Man
**** $$$
Location: 16433 Artillery Road, Eagle River
Hours: 11 a.m.-midnight. Monday-Saturday: noon.-Midnight.
Phone: 694-3777
Options: Dine-in, takeout and delivery (Eagle River area only)
Want to rave or pan? Write your own review of this restaurant or any other recently reviewed place at play.adn.com/dining.
Important warning about e-mails purporting to be from the adn.com staff.