Back in Alaska, I figured my churro eating days were over until I came across Señor Churro. The Boniface restaurant started out dedicated to the sweet treats, but later added an alluring variety of pupusas, authentic Salvadoran cuisine, sandwiches, burgers and another name, Las Pupusas. Here was something new under the sun. Not only is the menu fun to pronounce, it also helps expand Anchorage's repertoire of world cuisine.
My first visit was during a busy Friday lunch shift. To-go orders sat on the counter, three of the five tables were taken and the phone kept ringing. Owner René Ramos and his daughter, Cecilia Davis, comprised the entire staff. Ramos would work the register, wash his hands and then run to the back to help in the kitchen.
Even at this frenzied pace, Ramos was friendly as he took my order. I chose the mixed pupusas ($3.25 each for any flavor), a deep-fried chicken wrap ($7.95) and chicken pasteles (3 for $6.50). Pupusas are thick flatbreads made with corn and can be filled with almost anything. The menu offers treats filled with cheese, pork, zucchini or loroco (a Central American vine flower bud).
While I was waiting for my food I perused the menu. The house specialties include steak topped with sauteed onions and zucchini ($10.95) and chicharrones ($9.95), which are fried pork rinds. There are familiar items available too; a grilled chicken sandwich ($7.25) and a bacon cheeseburger ($8.95), which is Davis' favorite item.
"It reminds me of the burgers I used to eat growing up in Los Angeles," she said. "But my daughters love the cheese pupusas."
My order took a long time due to the rush, and I recommend calling in ahead or having it delivered. I couldn't be too annoyed though; Ramos gave me a twinkling smile and an apology and assured me I would like the pupusas.
He was right. The round, earthy bread broke apart in my hands and revealed bits of savory pork and oozing cheese. They are meant to be eaten with the accompanying sides of tomato sauce and pickled vegetables, which balance the richness of the fillings. I was an instant fan.
The half-moon shaped pasteles looked like mini calzones and were filled with shredded chicken. The corn crust was so thick that it took me a couple of bites to get to the chicken, which turned out to be dry and chewy.
The deep-fried wrap was much better. The chicken in the wrap was saucy and flavorful. Accompanied by rice, beans and sour cream, I couldn't believe the amount of food for the price.
Señor Churro's menu covers a lot of international ground. Ramos is Mexican, but he has family in Venezuela and got the idea for his restaurant from a Salvadoran friend. A lot of Central and South American people frequent the restaurant and enjoy the familiar food. Ramos is excited about adding Colombian arepas to the menu in the near future.
For my next visit, I called ahead for a steak sandwich ($9.25) during a Monday lunch and my order was ready when I walked in. The steak was tender, if a little bland. The restaurant's charm lies in its unique selections, and next time I will sample more of the Salvadoran menu.
I couldn't leave without trying the eponymous culinary star. To my great sorrow, the restaurant was all out of the filled ones ($1.50) and the luscious-sounding dulce de leche, strawberry and Bavarian cream-filled churros had to wait for another time.
I contented myself with my plain churro ($1.25), quite satisfied with the sugar-spiked bites of crunchiness. It was good, but now that I knew there was such a thing as filled churros, I vowed to be back. And I would buy two, one for each hand.
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Señor Churro / Las Pupusas *** $$
Location: 360 Boniface Parkway, B11
Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Friday, 12 p.m.- 9 p.m. Saturday, Sunday
Phone: 332-0380
Options: Dine-in, takeout and delivery
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