Trying to pay off Christmas expenses and still drink a satisfying red can be a humbling experience. My go-to country for value is Spain, and thanks to some enterprising young Alaska importers, we can pour the 2008 Codice from there. This is a lovely fat red with ample black fruit and vanilla, chocolate and wood aromatics. The effort here is obvious. Its complexity and spice push this wine above the ordinary. Serve with hearty winter foods. Costs about $14.
-- Michael McVittie reviews wines available locally