Salmon season is upon us, and while last week's chardonnay would be a wonderful accompaniment, a tender, spicy red is hard to beat. The 2006 Beronia Reserva is a perfect salmon wine, with its developed, spicy wooded aroma that is so typical and unique to Rioja. The black cherry fruit is luscious, tender and focused while the acids and tannins are quite polite but still make a statement -- overall, a medium-weight beauty that works famously with salmon. Cheers! Costs about $20.

-- Mike McVittie reviews wines available locally

Wine of the week: 2006 Beronia Reserva