The 2010 Tres Picos Garnacha from Spain is what I call a real wine. It's from Jorge Ordonez, maybe the best Spanish wine exporter around, and it's made from serious, 2-tons-per-acre, hand-harvested mountain fruit. The wine is very dark, amply wooded, and it has a typical grenache-style nose of strawberry and cherry. The mouth is full across the palate -- cherry and dusty spice. It's very lengthy with good focus and vigor, while supple tannins finish off the scene. You will have to dig for this one, but it's well worth the effort. Costs about $20.

-- Mike McVittie reviews wines available locally

Wine of the week: 2010 Tres Picos Garnacha