I usually try to keep my recommendations below the $20 mark, but if you want to taste exacting winemaking, then you have to step up to the plate. The 2008 Querciabella Chianti Classico is worth every penny. Its spicy aromatics are over the top and show what ripe fruit and skill can do. The black fruit mouth is supple and intelligent on the palate. It is so finely crafted that I would serve it with a pesto king salmon. Costs about $35.

-- Mike McVittie reviews wines available locally

Wine of the week: 2008 Querciabella Chianti Classico