In my career I have had a lot of boring and insipid Valpolicella -- until now. The 2010 Tommasi Rafael Valpolicella Classico Superior is so cool! Complex perfumes waft elegant; black fruits and medium-light body add grace and character to the light tannins. This is the real deal, an experience I wish for all of you! It's not that expensive, but it is a bit hard to find. Serve with lighter meat dishes and good friends. Costs about $20.

-- Mike McVittie reviews wines available locally