Once in a while some very cool stuff sneaks in. The Michael and David Winery's 2010 Ancient Vine Cinsault is exactly that. What a beauty! The nose is black cherry fruit with tar underpinnings. The mild mouth is layered in cherry, wood, spice and delicious lingering depth. There are lots of facets here. It reminds me of a great Cotes du Rhone with pinot noir overtones. Cinsault is not your everyday varietal, and it is rarely seen on its own. Serve with duck, lamb or grilled pork blades. Costs about $24.

-- Mike McVittie reviews wines available locally