We taste-tested five golden-cake, cream-filled substitutes, ranging from the Walgreen house brand to a Canadian import sold by Jewel-Osco. Cakes were rated on a scale of 1 to 5; 5 being sublime and 1 being on par with cardboard. As a control, we asked our taste-testers to think of a Twinkie as a 3.

Nice! Sponge Cake

Walgreens, $1.29 for two-pack

Average score: 1.4

Comment: Where did the "cream filling" go?

The Snack Artist Creme Cake

Safeway, $2.99 for box of 10

Average score: 2.6

Comment: Even has cream injection marks on bottom.

Cloud Cakes

Little Debbie, $3.09 for 10

Average score: 2.8

Comment: Cream filling, consistency and texture OK.

Vachon Golden Sponge Cakes

Saputo, sold at Jewel-Osco, $3.49 for a box of six

Average score: 3

Comment: Swayed by the chocolate - is that fair?

Great Value Golden Creme Cakes

Wal-Mart, $2.38 for 10

Average score: 2.6

Comment: Good filling, homemade taste.