From mountains to sound, exploring Valdez with kids

Our first family trip to Valdez several years ago was awash in late summer sunlight, the kind that makes every place seem golden with outdoor opportunity, even one known for socked-in weather any month of the year.

Maybe we arrived at just the right time, or maybe the gods of vacation weather were smiling, but whatever the reason, Valdez charmed our Alaskan family.

Located on the eastern side of Prince William Sound with easy access from both Anchorage and Fairbanks, Valdez is rapidly rising as a year-round destination for the adventurous. From hiking to kayaking, Valdez and its rugged access points attract those wanting to experience recreation with a capital "R."

That sense of adventure is attractive to Alaska families looking to escape for a few days, especially those seeking wilderness and water-based travel with kids.

Getting there

Visitors can reach Valdez several ways. The Alaska Marine Highway System offers ferry service from Whittier, a six-hour journey that includes opportunities to view floating bits of ice from Columbia Glacier or a few whale tails and sea otters.

Many travelers, us included, prefer a one-way ferry ride and a drive back to Anchorage utilizing the Richardson and Glenn Highways, a trip as long as the ferry, but with more opportunities to stop and enjoy more recreation along the way.

If time is important, Ravn Alaska flies daily from Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport, arriving at the little Valdez airport about 45 minutes later, passing over the remote, snow-capped Chugach Mountains.

Camper’s paradise

Even though Prince William Sound weather can be soggy or foggy, it's worth considering a campout at one of many areas in town and along the Richardson Highway. If staying close to downtown, Valdez's museums, parks, and water-based fun, try Bayside Campground and RV park, located within walking distance of kid-friendly trails, restaurants, and activities. They can also assist with tickets for day cruises, fishing charters, and other opportunities to explore the sound.

If you wish to camp farther from town, try Valdez Glacier Campground, operated by the United States Army's MWR (Morale, Welfare, and Recreation) department, and open to the public. Located a few miles from town near Valdez Glacier, the area is a stunning reminder of the area's icy past. .

Back up the Richardson Highway near Thompson Pass, our favorite campground is Blueberry Lake State Recreation Site, located on a rocky perch next to tiny Blueberry Lake. Rainstorms and occasional windy conditions can be chilly, but on a clear day, the Chugach mountains are stunning and miles of hiking trails can be accessed at the pass.

Family fun in Valdez

Valdez is a city of about 4,000 residents, a number that swells as summer arrives and the fishing fleets depart. Tourism accounts for a healthy number of seasonal visitors, as the unique combination of land and water make for a nearly exhaustive list of activities.

The city also bears a burden of tragic events that have shaped the community — a tsunami following the 9.2 earthquake in 1964 that all but washed away the entire original townsite and the grounding of the oil tanker Exxon Valdez in 1989. Anyone visiting the city, especially Alaskans, should make time to explore the many exhibits detailing both events.

Valdez Museum, located downtown, is an excellent place to start and appropriate for most kids. An annex provides information about the 1964 earthquake, centered in Prince William Sound, including video footage of the tsunami wave. It also has displays about Valdez's rich history for explorers and prospectors looking to strike it rich.

Coupled with the museum is the Old Town Valdez site, located a few miles from town on a flat stretch of land that abuts the end of the bay. Here a tsunami toppled boats, destroyed houses, and caused city leadership to move the entire site to where it sits today. Allow at least an hour for walking the former streets and noticing items left behind, including house foundations.

To view the marine life of Prince William Sound, look no further than a day cruise with one of the longest-running companies in Alaska. Stan Stephens Cruises operates two trips from Valdez: The first is a nine-hour cruise to Meares Glacier, a long day for some children but also an excellent opportunity to learn about the the animals that inhabit the sound's chilly water. The second, a seven-hour cruise to Columbia Glacier, provides up-close viewing of a glacier in retreat, popping off blocks of crystal-clear ice in bits along the way.

For smaller-scale boat trips with the same awe-inspiring views, Anadyr Adventures welcomes kids of nearly any age to hop in a kayak and explore glacial ice and marine habitats. A popular trip is the Valdez Glacier paddle, where caves and towers of blue ice can be viewed with knowledgeable guides. For longer trips, Anadyr powers up one of its boats and delivers paddlers to Shoup Glacier for a guided trip to view marine mammals, birds, and the occasional bear. A 10 percent discount is always offered for kids, making this a more affordable approach for many families.

Need to keep your feet on land? The Chugach National Forest information center at Crooked Creek on the fringe of town provides hiking maps and advice for enjoying a land-based experience in Valdez. Stick around for a guided walk or educational presentation, too, and in the summer, watch salmon make their way upstream.

In the end, rain or shine, on land or sea, the diversity of Valdez is clear, although it often takes more than one visit to try everything. The Valdez Convention and Visitors Bureau has a comprehensive seasonal listing of activities and events, and can help travelers compile an itinerary that fits their lifestyle.

Erin Kirkland is author of "Alaska On the Go: Exploring the 49th State with Children" and publisher of AKontheGO.com, a family travel resource.