Travel

For a tropical getaway that's off the beaten path, head to the Cook Islands

A foreign journey is full of surprises: different people with a new language, a new culture and new topography.

And although they speak English in the Cook Islands, they make up for it by driving on the left-hand side of the road. As an Alaskan arriving in the tropics, the first order of business is to get rid of the extra layers of clothing and apply some sunscreen.

After our 10-hour flight from Los Angeles, we landed on the edge of the island of Rarotonga. It's the largest of the 15 islands that make up the nation of the Cook Islands in the South Pacific. But it's still a small island: just 26 square miles. There's an ancient volcanic peak in the middle, often shrouded in clouds. The mountain is covered with a lush, green rainforest. Just offshore is a barrier reef that rings the island, providing several sheltered lagoons for swimming, kayaking and scuba diving.

But Rarotonga is just one of the islands. A 45-minute flight to Aitutaki takes you to a completely different environment. There is no mountain in the middle, although there is a small ridge on a hill that rises about 400 feet out of the water. The rest of the island is a coral reef that's barely out of the water. Around the large lagoon is a collection of 15 smaller islands.

While Rarotonga boasts a population of about 11,000, there are just 2,000 residents of Aitutaki. The small airport is located on the northeast corner of the island and is close to a cluster of resorts that hugs the shore for easy access to the lagoon. Aitutaki Village is a cluster of bungalows just a few steps away from the sheltered waters of the lagoon. It is an idyllic setting — it's hard to be angry or in a hurry when you're surrounded by these turquoise waters.

The lagoon is perfect for bonefishing. Anglers come from around the world to drift silently over the fishing grounds, hoping to lure one of the tough-fighting fish. The hotel staff said upward of 40 percent of their guests come in search of the bonefish.

Bonefish are not the only reef fish in the lagoon, though. For an up-close look, go on the Vaka Cruise, which sails from a beach just 200 yards from Aitutaki Village. Sail aboard the "Titi Ai Tonga" on a six-hour scenic snorkeling cruise that visits several small islets and offers travelers a unique passport stamp from "One Foot Island."

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The cruise offers a buffet luncheon, but first there's a cruise across the lagoon to a snorkel spot. Here, the crew points out some of the local fish — both big and small. Follow the crew members' instructions when they advise you to take off any jewelry or watches. Some of the reef fish that swim around the boat are bigger than the bonefish and they are attracted by shiny objects!

All of the snorkel equipment is included in the $125 NZ price (about $89 USD). If some of the island locations look familiar, it's because several seasons of the popular TV show "Survivor" were filmed here.

Docking at One Foot Island, there is a small shack where, for a $1 NZ fee, the staff will stamp your passport. Also, they offer postcards, stamps and a mailbox for visitors to write home about the beautiful setting.

Hike around during the snorkel stop. Just be sure and watch your step. On the lagoon side, the water is smooth and the beach is sandy. As you walk around to the ocean side, the beach disappears and the shore consists of big rocks. Depending on the weather, it can get windy, whipping up the surf.

In the 1950s, Aitutaki was a layover point for the Flying Boats operated by Tasman Empire Airways Ltd. These planes flew the "Coral Route" from Australia and New Zealand to the U.S. At the time, there was a hotel and special dock prepared for travelers. All that is left of the operation is a broken-down jetty on the small islet of Akaiami.

The Vaka cruise is just six hours. But six hours in the surf and sun can be draining. It's common to look out from the hotel check-in to see people just lounging about under the shade of the trees late in the afternoon.

The folks at Aitutaki Village offer a continental breakfast each morning. But there are no espresso drinks. The staff just pointed to the road and said, "Go to Koru Cafe." It's just a five-minute walk from the beach. Coffee snobs will not be disappointed.

Although it's just a five-minute walk, the hotel staff was careful to point out the many coconuts on the ground and advised me to be careful not to walk directly under the trees. I was careful to avoid the trees, but walked right into a low-hanging sign, putting a nice gash in my head. I got a nice island tour on the way to the local hospital, where they gave me some iodine and reminded me again about falling coconuts. I was thankful that I had travel insurance, although I didn't need to file a claim.

On the drive back to the resort, we passed what looked like a dinosaur bone with a giant claw. Apparently, a driver had run over a coconut crab. Aitutaki has a healthy population of these land crabs, which are a local delicacy. Our driver said not to run over the claws — they are sharp enough to puncture a tire.

It's a quick 30-minute flight on Air Rarotonga from Aitutaki to Atiu, another of the 15 islands in the small nation. Unlike Aitutaki, there is no large, protected lagoon. And unlike Rarotonga, there is no big volcanic peak in the middle of the island. Instead, Atiu is a volcanic island that's slowly being pushed up out of the ocean. It is covered in fossilized coral. The barrier reef is very close to the shore, so there is just one beach on the island — and that was where Captain James Cook's expedition landed in 1777.

Atiu is small — about 2 miles long and 2 miles wide. There are about 300 permanent residents. The island is a naturalist's paradise, with many varieties of unusual birds and plants. Our "bus" from the airport was the back of a pickup. That's how everyone travels. Near the airport is the "port," where locals carved a passage in the reef so supply barges could land. It's essentially a boat ramp, next to a small breakwater.

Because of the unusual coral formations, there are several caves on the island. Marshall Humphreys of Atiu Tours leads a hike through the coral forest to seek out the kopeka bird. This is an unusual bird that nests in total darkness and uses sonar-like chirps to navigate in the cave. Yet it feeds in the forest during the day. Humphreys outfits everyone with walking sticks and headlamps for the hike. Watch your step! Inside the cave, there's even a natural pool if you want to go swimming.

We stayed at Aitu Villas, a small lodge in the center of the island. It's a collection of bungalows, each with a stocked larder and a pay-as-you-go system for snacks.

Another "pickup tour" of the island is available from "Birdman George" Mateariki, who seeks out the rare kakerori bird and the lorikeet while offering a running commentary on the island, its history and culture. One of the stops is the beach where Cook's crew landed. Here, George offers a spread of island food, including fruit and coconut. The fruit is nice, but George will remind you it's the taro plant that is the staple of the island diet.

Even though the weather is quite different than here in Alaska, the logistics of everyday life in Aitutaki and Aitu are similar to rural parts of the state: freight has to be barged in one infrequent freighter. There is a tight family feeling among the local residents, who welcome visitors and invite them to learn more about their life and culture.

English is the official language of the Cook Islands and the New Zealand dollar is the official currency. But the unique Polynesian culture is pervasive. Each island is very different from the other — offering its own surprises for the traveler who is willing to venture off the beaten path.

Scott McMurren is an Anchorage-based marketing consultant, serving clients in the transportation, hospitality, media and specialty destination sectors, among others. Contact him by email at zoom907@me.com. You can follow him on Twitter (@alaskatravelGRM) and alaskatravelgram.com. For more information, visit alaskatravelgram.com/about.

 

Scott McMurren

Scott McMurren is an Anchorage-based marketing consultant, serving clients in the transportation, hospitality, media and specialty destination sectors, among others. Contact him by email at zoom907@me.com. Subscribe to his e-newsletter at alaskatravelgram.com. For more information, visit alaskatravelgram.com/about.

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