Wine of the week: 2010 Stemmari Grillo

I've been sifting through the chaff so you don't have to, and here's an interesting one that showed up a few weeks back: It's from Sicily, and the grape variety is grillo. You've never heard of it -- or at least most people haven't. It usually makes Marsala, but as a dry white it is completely charming. The 2010 Stemmari Grillo is very pale, with delicate citrus and mineral aromas. The mouth is clean and ultimately refreshing. Bracing and balanced, the mouth carries through with the lemon theme. It's a zesty alternative to the now ubiquitous pinot grigio/gris. Costs about $12.

-- Michael McVittie reviews wines available locally