An Alaskan's guide to the Inside Passage

Adventures are a dime a dozen in America's biggest and most remote wilderness. Accessing all that Alaska has to offer, though, can sometimes be challenging, even to those who living here. Railbelt Alaskans, or those living on the road and railway system, often overlook Southeast – the coastal communities of Ketchikan, Juneau, Sitka, or other remote Inside Passage destinations more often seen out commercial jet windows than experienced first-hand.

Do you have some airline miles to burn? Are you up for an adventure? Built-in deals offered by Alaska's namesake airline should make Southeast a destination on the Alaskan family itinerary.

Pro tip: 15,000 Alaska Airlines Mileage Plan miles can be exchanged for a flight to nearly anywhere in the 49th state. There is no problem jumping online and booking travel via mileage rewards from the Golden Heart City of Fairbanks, Alaska, to Ketchikan, southernmost stop on the Alaska Marine Highway Ferry System, for 15,000 miles.

Southeast Alaska offers more family-friendly and tourism-oriented recreation than one might imagine. That's because many of airline system communities – places like Wrangell, Petersburg, Sitka, Juneau, Ketchikan, even Yakutat – also are destinations on the Alaska cruise circuit, meaning that you'll find plenty of activities, local crafts and kitsch for casually seeing the Panhandle.

Adrenaline rushes aplenty await the extreme outdoors sports nuts, too, set amidst some of Alaska's most extraordinary natural beauty.

Ketchikan, Alaska: Fly-in or ship out

If you fly into Ketchikan, you'll land at the airport on Gravina Island--which still is connected by ferry to the "town side". The ferry runs frequently between the airport and town (it's less than 5 minutes across the Tongass Narrows). Cost is $5 each way (no credit cards accepted). You'll save money by renting a car on the town side, so you don't have to pay to ferry the car in both directions.

Sailing across on the ferry, you'll likely see a line of deHavilland Beavers at the dock. Taquan Air runs popular flightseeing tours of Misty Fjords National Monument. The flights offer a stunning perspective of the 3,000-foot cliffs in the fjord. Often, the pilot will land so you can get out on the float and take in the majestic setting.

ADVERTISEMENT

Southeast Sea Kayaks offers several trips in their single and double kayaks. Choose from a paddle through the harbor and up Creek Street (depending on the tide!), or at a remote bay where you can paddle through the clear waters and pristine shoreline.

The fishing is great in September for silver salmon. Head north from downtown up to Clover Pass. Clover Pass Resort offers rent-your-own skiffs for anglers to get out on the water and try their luck.

Thrill-seekers can opt for the zipline courses operated by Alaska Canopy Adventures. The course is south of downtown in Herring Cove, where you may see some black bears walking the beach in search of some washed-up salmon. There's a hatchery nearby, so the bears are frequent visitors.

Be sure and visit Totem Bight State Historical Park. The park hosts an impressive collection of totem poles, as well as a traditional clan house.

August and September are good months to shop along Historic Creek Street in Ketchikan. As the cruise season winds down, many clothing merchants are anxious to sell off their remaining inventory at a discount. Once home to a collection of brothels built along a boardwalk, Creek Street now features some great art and souvenir shops, including Alaska artist Ray Troll's "Soho Coho." On the other side of the creek, Parnassus Books is a cozy independent bookstore. The owner, Maggie Freitag, often hosts Alaskan authors at book signings--and the shop offers visitors a wide selection of Alaska historic books, fiction and photography.

Little Norway of Alaska and unforgettable ferry rides

Alaska Airlines is the quickest way between ports in southeast Alaska, but consider taking Alaska's Marine Highway. The ferry is celebrating its 50th season linking far-flung communities like Metlakatla, Wrangell, Tenakee Springs and Skagway, among others.

The trip north from Ketchikan on the ferry features stops in Wrangell and Petersburg, as well as a trip through the Wrangell Narrows. And "narrow" is right. The 22-mile channel features 60 lights and bouys to mark the path along the back side of Mitkof Island up to Petersburg.

Once in Juneau, have your camera ready. Ride the Mount Roberts Tram up from the cruise dock. It's a great way to jump-start your three-mile hike up Mount Roberts, which offers myriad several multimillion-dollar views of downtown Juneau, the Gastineau Channel and the airport. Pro tip: Here's a great place to use as holiday card backdrop.

Afterward, consider grabbing a bite at the Sandpiper Cafe. They have delicious venison and bison burgers, in addition to other lunch specials. For a great wood-fired pizza, drive across the channel to Douglas and dine at the Island Pub.

You can't miss the stunning Mendenhall Glacier when you fly into Juneau. It's an easy drive or a bus ride from downtown. There are all kinds of trails to hike around, departing from the visitors center. In the late afternoon, it's not uncommon to see black bears fishing for salmon right underneath the boardwalk near the parking lot!

Juneau is near a natural "choke point" for whales feeding in the Chatham Strait. You can sail with a whalewatching company, such as Alaska Galore Tours, departing from Auke Bay north of the airport. Local residents say there is at least one young humpback whale that is putting on a real show for travelers this year.

You also can watch the whales from the shore--but it's a good idea to bring your binoculars. Drive out to the Shrine of St. Therese, 23 miles from downtown Juneau. This is a beautiful compound, first established in 1933 -- complete with a chapel on an island, an outdoor labyrinth and cabins for folks on retreat. So approach the area with reverence. Walk out to the chapel on the island, which is connected by a causeway. On the far side of the island, there are several spots with unobstructed views of the straits. Just look for all the whale-watching boats!

For a real thrill, take a helicopter flightseeing tour and land on a glacier. TEMSCO Helicopters flies up to Mendenhall Glacier, while Era Helicopters flies south to the Taku Glacier. There is nothing like a chopper tour for great views, particularly of these two stunning glaciers. On the way you'll pass over beautiful mountains, along some raging rivers--and you might see some wildlife!

1,500 miles roundtrip or 15,000 air miles

Southeast Alaska is a natural wonderland, with plenty of creature comforts. You can drive 787 miles from Anchorage to Haines and hop the ferry to Juneau. I've done it. But the 15,000-mile award with Alaska Airlines is more efficient. Don't miss out on some great adventures right here in Alaska!

Scott McMurren is an Anchorage-based travel marketing consultant who has lived in Alaska for three decades, spending much of that time traveling the far-flung corners of the state. Visit his website at www.alaskatravelgram.com or follow him on Twitter for breaking travel news.

Scott McMurren

Scott McMurren is an Anchorage-based marketing consultant, serving clients in the transportation, hospitality, media and specialty destination sectors, among others. Contact him by email at zoom907@me.com. Subscribe to his e-newsletter at alaskatravelgram.com. For more information, visit alaskatravelgram.com/about.

ADVERTISEMENT