Although Fairbanks is known as a place where winter is celebrated and thrives, locals know that to see some truly spectacular scenery, they need to go farther north. The Brooks Range multiple spectacular peaks, including the 9,020-foot Mount Chamberlin, tallest peak in the Brooks Range. On a clear day, this 700-mile stretch of mountains is the very definition of picture postcard. It also happens to be home to one of Alaska's biggest little surprises.
Only 154 miles northwest of Fairbanks, the village of Bettles offers not only an excellent stopping point for fuel and a stretch of the legs, but is also home to Bettles Lodge, which is open year-round. Flying a Cessna 180, the flight should take a little more than an hour, although you can certainly take the scenic route and dip into the range a bit before arriving.
Originally opened by Wien Airlines pilot and station manager James "Andy" Anderson in 1952, Bettles Lodge was a reliable bunkhouse and stopping point for pilots flying across northern Alaska. Later purchased by the airline, it served as one of many reliable "Wien lodges" or roadhouses across the territory. For a thorough history of aviation in the region, check out Anderson's book "Arctic Bush Pilot". Anderson was the first Wien Airlines pilot in Bettles and flew out of there for more than a decade. His wife Hannah was the longtime lodge manager.
In 1982 the lodge was purchased by the Klaes Family who expanded it to address not only local needs but also those of the tourists drawn to Gates of the Arctic National Park. Bettles Lodge now offers not only fuel and food but also numerous outdoor "packages" and day tours and is home to Bettles Air Service. In 1996, the building became a National Historic Site.
Pilots can also purchase fuel from nearby Brooks Range Aviation, which offers a host of guide services and package trips for those who may not be comfortable making flights into the range on their own.
Pilots flying into Bettles can expect a well-maintained runway and an easy taxi to fuel and food. Bettles Lodge is closed on Sundays during the winter but otherwise open for business. If you are interested in food, phone a day or two ahead and let them know you are coming so they can prepare for unexpected guests. There is no official menu at the lodge but plenty of possibilities. According to their website, the lodge not only features traditional Alaska cuisine but also southern comfort and Asian fusion foods.
While a late fall or early winter visit offers its own special attractions -- fewer tourists -- pilots should consider bringing family back to Bettles and Gates of the Arctic in the spring and summer. The fishing on the Koyukuk and Kobuk Rivers -- especially at Walker Lake -- is stellar and the area offers some impressive birdwatching opportunities with more than 130 birds known to frequent the park. As for hunting season, that would seem to be obvious but there are plenty of testimonials on the Brooks Range Aviation website to persuade you to hunt caribou.
Bettles offers Fairbanks pilots a unique opportunity to get out over the Tanana Flats and experience some mountain flying while still enjoying a good meal and all the comforts of home. Lots of folks consider Bettles their first "true" Alaskan experience when visiting the state and with its small population -- less than 50 people call the community home year-round -- and frontier location, it certainly fits the bill. But for Fairbanks residents, it is more a local gem that we can return to with ease whenever we like. Winter or summer, Bettles is always a destination worth visiting.
Contact Colleen Mondor at colleen(at)alaskadispatch.com. Follow her on Twitter @chasingray