Alaska News

Dining review: The art of a well-executed meal at Muse

My mother is a lover of art and has been a docent in galleries all around the country, so I grew up in museums. But my memories aren't of old masters, dadaists and Greek statuary. Probably to my mother's dismay, my most vivid museum memories involve food. As a reward for a day spent trailing her tours at the Smithsonian, she would take me to lunch at the National Gallery cafeteria. At the time, my tastes ran to hot dogs and chocolate pudding. My tastes have since grown up and so have the offerings at most museum restaurants.

Later, in New York, my husband and I would bypass the long lines for the popular exhibits and head straight for the cafe on the balcony of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. I don't know why, but wine and cheese taste better when eaten near Etruscan pottery.

Which brings me to Muse Restaurant at the Anchorage Museum. I enjoyed the chic little eatery when it was under the management of the Marx brothers. Recently, however, it has changed hands and I was curious to see what's new.

For starters, the new management seems to recognize that the restaurant's location might be a little bit too discreet. When I recently went to meet a friend for dinner, I was met in the lobby by an attentive host who took me through the entrance to a nice table overlooking Rachelle Dowdy's whimsical wildlife statues on the patio. With the lobby deserted after museum hours are over, it was nice to be ushered in and made to feel welcome.

I arrived a few minutes before 6 p.m. -- the time I was supposed to meet my friend and the official end of happy hour. The waitress suggested I order an appetizer or two for the table while they were still half-price. I appreciated her attention to my wallet.

The menu has some similarities to that of the old Muse, with a variety of salads, soups and fine-dining entrees. But it also has some selections that lean toward "comfort food" -- chicken pot pie, buffalo wings and yam fries, for example. While, individually, the choices are appealing, it's a slightly confusing menu and not the easiest one to build a meal around. Do you want an order of buffalo wings before your high-end entrée of beef tenderloin with port wine demi-glace and Stilton?

From the half-price appetizer menu, I ordered the spicy smoked tomato buttermilk fried shrimp ($6.95) and an order of lattice-cut fries with feta cheese and chives ($5.95). The shrimp, with its deeply browned, crackly coating was a hit, though I would have preferred to have the flavorful tomato sauce on the side as a dipping sauce in order to control the texture.

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Like most Americans, I have a deep love for good french fries, and the ones served here are exceptional. The waffling on the potato creates a lot of crispy surface area but they are cut thick enough to be tender inside. The feta and herbs are a tasty addition -- melting and mingling together to create a decadent sauce. I noticed that the fries are only available during happy hour and was glad I took advantage of the short window. I would love to see these on their full-time menu.

As an entrée, I chose the osso bucco ($24.95) and my friend opted for the citrus soy-glazed salmon ($23.95). The lamb shank, with a slightly fruity demi-glace, is side-of-the-fork tender. Served on top of rich mashed yams and grilled asparagus, this is the consummate winter dish -- the perfect fare to tuck into when there's a nip in the air.

By contrast, the salmon was light and bright with sunny notes of citrus. The coconut-flavored rice added to the almost tropical feel of the meal. One dish helps you embrace winter while the other one helps you escape it.

I returned later in the week for a weekend lunch with my husband. To begin, we shared a generous portion of yam wedges with a basil aioli dipping sauce ($10.95). Thickly cut and meaty, these can almost fool you into thinking you're eating something healthy. The dipping sauce, while pleasant, could have used a bit more zing. Its mild creaminess is too similar to the mild, creamy interior of the yam.

To follow, I ordered the chicken club sandwich with Cambozola ($14.95). A whole boneless chicken breast is topped with bacon, avocado, lettuce, tomato, pickled onions, basil, olive mayo and a layer of crumbled cheese. Cambozola is one of my favorite cheeses -- aromatic and assertive -- and it's the perfect way to punch up a normally bland chicken breast. My only thought about this otherwise delicious sandwich is that the flavors might have mingled better had the chicken been sliced.

I tasted my husband's bacon brie avocado burger ($14.95) but I did the burger a disservice by tasting my sandwich first. My palate was compromised. After the Cambozola, all milder flavors tasted a bit insipid. My husband, however, was well satisfied.

A word about the service. The staff looks professional, crisp and at the ready. They move with efficiency and precision and, while very friendly, bring a bit of formality to the proceedings. Friendly formality sums Muse up nicely, in fact, and dining there feels special.

Anchorage has a wonderful museum with art to feed your soul. But it's OK to go and feed your stomach. After all, a good sandwich can be a work of art.

Muse Cafe

Hours: 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Tuesday, Wednesday, Sunday; 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Thursday-Saturday

Location: Anchorage Museum, 625 C Street

Phone: 929-9210

Mara Severin | Eating out

Mara Severin is a food writer who writes about restaurants in Southcentral Alaska. Want to respond to a column or suggest a restaurant for review? Reach her at dining@adn.com.

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