Alaska News

Scott McMurren: Eating your way around Alaska

Traveling around Alaska is exciting. Whether you're flying to a remote beach, climbing up a mountain for that million-dollar view or fighting hard to reel in that big fish, all of the excitement helps fuel a hearty appetite.

Throughout the state, you'll find a variety of establishments where you can stop in, sit down and grab a bite to eat. Some provide fuel for the journey, while others are worth writing home about. Everyone has their favorite pizza joints, breakfast bars and coffee stands. I've organized some of mine together by community.

Ketchikan

I love Alaska's "First City," nicknamed because it's the first port of call in Alaska for cruise ships or the ferry. There are dozens of restaurants near the cruise docks, but my favorite is closer to the ferry terminal: Bar Harbor Restaurant. Located on the main drag at 2813 Tongass Ave., the restaurant is in a small house with a small sign. I drove right past it a couple of times. There are no tricks or gimmicks to this local favorite. I met my sister and brother-in-law here for dinner and enjoyed a delicious steak and a Caesar salad. You'll find an impressive wine list. They're open 5 p.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday. Since it's cozy, I'd call ahead for reservations: 225-2813.

Juneau

There is no shortage of places to eat and drink in Alaska's capital city. You can start in the morning with breakfast at the Sandpiper Cafe. Adjacent to the Driftwood Hotel at 429 W. Willoughby Ave., this popular restaurant offers some unique specials, including the ostrich egg omelet (serves 8-10!). When in doubt, though, opt for the daily special scramble, which usually includes peppers, sausage and a mix of other cheeses and vegetables. Another favorite: the breakfast burrito. Plus, the coffee is delicious.

For lunch, drive across the bridge to Douglas and visit the Island Pub. Owner Rick Kasnick built this pub to include a wood-fired pizza oven and a view of the Gastineau Channel. In the summer, it's fun to watch the cruise ships sail past the window while you're enjoying a tall, cool one. Pizzas aside, I almost always order the Island Blue salad with pecans and grapes. Then I ask them to top it off with a steak. They do a great job.

There's a new place downtown that I love for dinner: Salt. On my last visit to Juneau, I stayed at the Silverbow Inn on Second Street. They have a tiny new wine bar in the lobby, but it's closed on Mondays. So I went next door to Salt, on the corner of Second Street and Seward Street. Since it's just a couple of blocks from the Capitol building, they spent some good money putting together a great bar, with plenty of microbrews on tap. But the surprise on the menu was the Vegetable Wellington. Stuffed in a pastry shell, this wholesome vegetarian dish includes a hearty mix of eggplant and other delights. There's nothing wrong with the rib-eye steak, either. But the veggie dish is a standout favorite.

Sitka

I'm ready to move into Ludvig's Bistro at 256 Katlian St. Unfortunately, their signature "rustic Mediterranean fare" is not available all year long. The wine bar and gallery is open, and they serve nice wines from Spain and Italy. But the food is delicious. Make plans to stop in when it reopens in February for dinner. The specialty at this small eatery is taking traditional Mediterranean dishes and plugging in Alaska seafood. The wild Alaskan paella mixta is a good example: prawns, scallops, salmon, rockfish and more, baked with saffron Arborio rice and vegetables. Yum!

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Homer

Out on the Homer Spit, Kirsten Dixon (of Winterlake Lodge fame) and her daughter Mandy Dixon opened La Baleine Cafe for breakfast and lunch. It's only open in the summer, and Mandy said the breakfast sandwich is one of the most popular items. I opted for the Baleine Breakfast Skillet with coriander, cardamom and other spices. It's the first time I've ever had carrots in my eggs, and it was delicious.

Two Sisters Bakery is located near Bishop's Beach at 233 E. Bunnell Ave., I can honestly say I'm a better man having eaten here. I'm a bigger one, too. Look beyond the delicious cinnamon rolls to the savory pastries. If you want some solid rocket fuel to prepare for the drive back to Anchorage, this is the place. My typical order includes a ham-and-cheese savory, a 16-ounce triple Americano and a lemon square for the road.

While Two Sisters Bakery is a great launch pad for the drive back to Anchorage, Fat Olives Restaurant is the perfect first stop when you're coming into Homer hot and fast off the big hill. It's located just off the Sterling Highway at 276 Ohlson Lane, just a couple of blocks from Two Sisters. The pizza is delicious. Part of their mission, though, is to offer good wines by the glass, which go nicely with a pizza and salad.

Seward

The proper name is the Smoke Shack, but everyone just calls it the Train Wreck. Right next to the Holiday Inn Express near the small boat harbor (411 Port Ave.), there are four old Alaska Railroad train cars tied together with a deck in between. There's a bike rental shop and a bed-and-breakfast in two of the cars. One of the other cars is the Smoke Shack, which is my favorite place for breakfast. Hat tip to Seward's Tom Tougas for introducing me to this funky diner with delicious food. The interior features several booths tacked together with plywood. I like the breakfast burrito and the huevos rancheros. Your server will bring a six-pack of sauces from which to choose. Choose wisely, since some are hotter than others. Much hotter.

Talkeetna

There's breakfast and non-breakfast. Those are the categories at the Talkeetna Roadhouse. Hostess Trisha Costello serves up pancakes that flop over the side of the plate. Nobody goes hungry here. Trisha and her crew pump out a steady stream of breads, pastries and other sweets to satisfy the hungriest adventurer. In fact, the Roadhouse will pack a box lunch to take on the Hurricane Train if you're riding the rails.

For pizza, you cannot beat Mountain High Pizza Pie. It's right across the street from the Talkeetna Roadhouse. There's no shortage of variety here, as Mountain High boasts 35 separate toppings. I opted for the Main Street Gossip with white sauce, spinach, chicken, bacon, cheese and ranch sauce. Of course, there's more than pizza. There's beer. And calzone, stromboli and ravioli. But I'll make the drive north to get some pizza.

Fairbanks

I have never had a bad meal at Lavelle's Bistro in Fairbanks. Located at 575 First Ave. in the lobby of the Spring Hill Suites Hotel, the bar has a festive feel, and you can see the chefs preparing your food. Earlier this month, three of us stopped in to share some small plates and a glass of wine. We were steered to the miniature rack of lamb by Anchorage foodie Jennifer Thompson. Score! We added the shrimp in Thai red curry sauce and the beer-battered halibut. We also split one of the restaurant's signature salads, which includes caramelized walnuts, pears and gorgonzola cheese. The wine? There's an entire wall of wine separating the bar from the dining room. There's also an extensive list of wines served by the glass, including "Value wines from the Sommelier."

What about Anchorage? That's another story. In the meantime, take some time and explore the great eats all around town!

Scott McMurren

Scott McMurren is an Anchorage-based marketing consultant, serving clients in the transportation, hospitality, media and specialty destination sectors, among others. Contact him by email at zoom907@me.com. Subscribe to his e-newsletter at alaskatravelgram.com. For more information, visit alaskatravelgram.com/about.

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