Fairbanks

Too cold? Too dark? Tough Alaska kids revel in winter fun in Fairbanks

FAIRBANKS -- Not every family vacation begins and ends at minus-40 F. But then, not every family has placed a winter trip to Fairbanks on its bucket list. I get it; frosty eyelashes and layers of clothing coupled with hours of darkness sound like torture to some moms and dads. When we first arrived in Alaska nearly 10 years ago, that was our view, too. But beyond that cold and dark lies a plethora of winter activities to please busy kids and skeptical parents. It just takes a little more planning and a healthy dose of Last Frontier spirit.

Fairbanks is in the heart of Alaska's Interior, with most residents willing, if not eager, to embrace outdoor recreation despite the fierce cold. While most visitors arrive during the bustling summer months, winter has been advancing as an option for those interested in the longest Alaska season, and this includes a good number of families.

From sled dogs to northern lights, Alaska's third-largest community offers a large docket of fun pursuits. It's accessible, too, with daily flights and weekly rail service connecting Anchorage to the Golden Heart City. But this is Alaska unplugged, and for youngsters, it's an excellent way to test their cold-weather mettle against whatever Mother Nature might throw out in the daily forecast.

Our family enjoys visiting Fairbanks in winter, with the combination of ultra-cold and activities not always found at home. Generally, we fly to Fairbanks, eliminating a long, slippery day of winter driving. Alaska Airlines offers daily service from Anchorage, a great way to use miles or that annual companion fare ticket. Alaska Railroad provides weekly service to and from Fairbanks, traveling north from Anchorage on Saturday, then south from Fairbanks on Sunday. Starting Feb. 24, the railroad will begin short-term midweek service as well, with Tuesday departures from Anchorage and Wednesday departures from Fairbanks through March 18. Alaska Airlines and the railroad team up for fly-rail specials, making the 12-hour, one-way train trip a little more palatable for families with children. Car rentals are easily acquired at the Fairbanks airport and highly recommended, since most attractions are scattered throughout the greater Fairbanks area.

The Fairbanks Convention and Visitors Bureau is always our first stop, partly for information but also for the amazing exhibits on display at the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center. Situated on the banks of winding Chena River, the building is home to the visitor bureau, Alaska Public Lands Information Center, and the Tanana Chiefs Conference, providing a trifecta of knowledge, culture, and trip advice.

Lodging is easy to find, often at extremely reasonable rates. Try Pike's Waterfront Lodge, located minutes from the airport. Pike's thrives on winter deals for Alaskans, and we always appreciate their hospitality, with a continental breakfast each morning and free ice cream every night. We also like the Hampton Inn and Suites near the Johannsen Expressway. They offer an indoor swimming pool and full breakfast each morning too.

But it's the fun stuff that kids want. Between the first snowfall and last ice break-up, Fairbanks strives to keep families active, cold and darkness be darned.

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The Running Reindeer Ranch in picturesque Goldstream Valley takes visitors on a short hike with reindeer. That's right, your kids can wander through a birch forest with reindeer named Ruby, Willow, and Rufus, learning a ton of interesting information about these fascinating, adaptive animals who, by the way, prefer lichen to carrots. Kids of any age are welcome.

Creamer's Field, located just off College Road in town, is 150 acres of a nearly 2,000-acre waterfowl refuge. Featuring an interesting combination of former farmland and boreal forest, wintertime recreation abounds, here. Try nordic skiing along the kid-friendly trails; bring your own skis or rent from REI or Beaver Sports. Look for moose, fox, and many small birds who choose to winter over in the brushy stands of trees. The Farmhouse Visitor Center hosts frequent guided hikes and family days as well, check their schedule for upcoming events around the holiday season.

Aurora borealis tours have ramped up with the recent solar storm that can prompt swirling dances of light in the nighttime hours. If there was a reason for a spike of wintertime visitors, this would be it. Try Ronn & Marketa Murray Photography Tours, a family-centered option for those who wish to show young people the joys of staying up late and watching the sky come alive in green, red, and yellow hues. For budding photographers, this is an excellent way to introduce kids to cameras, and professional photographers Ronn and Marketa are patient teachers. Tours range from a few hours to a few days, depending upon auroral predictions and kids' ability to stay up all night.

For families anxious to experience the thrill of dog-mushing, Sirius Sled Dogs is worth a visit. Located at the top of scenic and remote Murphy Dome, guests are given the chance to learn the mechanics of owning and running a complete kennel of sled dogs whose names and personalities reflect the business' status as a family operation. Our son, age 9, was able to pet, pat, harness, and ride the runners. I got to drive a second team with owner Anita Fowler, and my husband rode herd on the bunch of us, lounging in the basket of a creaking, swiftly-moving wooden sled. Combine a short ride with hot cocoa and the northern lights, or add an overnight adventure for a truly authentic backcountry experience.

Not convinced your kids will be able to handle the cold?

Today's child-centric winter gear is not the nylon snow suits we grew up wearing. The 21st-century outdoor ensembles sold at stores are lighter, warmer, and well-suited to busy Alaska kids. The key is layering clothing with non-cotton fabrics and adding a water and windproof outer layer that protects from the Interior's frigid weather. Parents should also remember to cover faces, particularly cheeks and noses, as frostbite strikes quickly in below-zero conditions. We always utilize mittens over gloves, and add chemical hand-warmer packets for extra protection. A thermos of hot chocolate or tea warms from the inside, and frequent breaks indoors allow parents to check for any exposed skin or cold spots. Remember too, that active bodies need more calories, so be sure and pack snacks to keep your kids going during the day.

Noted poet William Blake said, "In seed-time learn, in harvest teach, in winter enjoy."

I couldn't have said it better, myself.

Erin Kirkland is publisher of AKontheGO.com and author of the guidebook "Alaska On the Go: Exploring the 49th State with Children."

Fairbanks area winter festivals and events

Thanksgiving for the Birds, Creamer's Field. Make bird feeders for winter's feathered friends at the Farmhouse Visitor Center. www.creamersfield.org

Christmas In Ice, North Pole. Nov. 29-Jan. 6, 2015. Features ice park, holiday decorations and activities, and an outdoor picnic for families. Santa Claus, of course, plays a major role. www.christmasinice.org

New Year's Eve Sparktacular, University of Alaska Fairbanks. Celebrate the new year with fireworks and hot chocolate on the hillside overlooking the Tanana Valley on the UAF campus. www.uaf.edu

World Ice Art Championships, Fairbanks. Feb. 23-March 29, 2015. Ice art competition with participants from around the world. Kids' ice park and slides, skating, music, and an ice maze. www.icealaska.com

Open North American Sled Dog Championship, downtown Fairbanks. March 20-22, 2015. Watch sprint mushers and their teams during three days of racing. www.sleddog.org

Iron Dog, Chena River, mid-day Feb. 28. See who wins the world longest and toughest snowmachine race, 2,000 miles from Big Lake to Nome to Fairbanks.

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