Alaska News

Kim Sunée: For a bright side, Brussels sprouts, kale and pomegranate salad

Thanksgiving is my absolute favorite food holiday, but having been struck with wanderlust for most of my twenties and thirties, I didn't have the same gathering of friends and family; it was always an eclectic and well-traveled group that was reflected in the food.

Over the years and depending on which country I was in and who was present, my Thanksgiving table was a smorgasbord of offerings, including everything from warm spoonbread, sumac-roasted lamb and kimchi fried rice to French apple galettes and Swedish potato and salmon pudding: comfort foods that made everyone feel respectively at home.

Although I miss the group of fellow vagabonds, it's nice to finally have a kitchen of my own here in Alaska where I can share the table with family and friends from all over the globe. Now, when it comes to the big Thanksgiving meal, I like to offer a variety of side dishes. We all know that turkey is the star, but quite frankly, the supporting sides can also be show-stoppers. Some of my favorites include spicy oyster dressing, gravy, creamed cauliflower, fresh cranberry sauce (canned with ridge marks will do in a pinch) -- and did I mention the gravy? Since there are usually one or two vegetarian-leaning diners at my table, I try to balance the starch-heavy spuds — often creamed and topped with cheese — with clean, bright flavors, like this salad of Brussels sprouts and kale.

I know there are lifelong Brussels sprouts haters out there but this salad has actually converted some of those haters into believers; I've watched some go back for seconds, saying, "I might need to try some more just to make sure it's really Brussels sprouts." The trick is to very thinly slice the sprouts and the kale into lovely ribbons of varied shades of green.

Exact recipes for salads are almost futile because much depends on what Mother Nature has made seasonably available (not to mention the timing of cargo ships to Alaska). The rest is really improv and depends on what you feel like tossing in. For this winter salad, I sometimes cut up an apple or persimmon instead of a pear, or fry almonds to sprinkle on top. You could try feta or queso fresco or leave out the cheese altogether.

It's easy to make this salad the day before. Just keep the dressing separate and take a few seconds to rough up the sliced greens with some salt so they can better receive the dressing, which you'll toss in at the last minute.

As for the dressing, I like a simple shallot vinaigrette, but if you want a bit more sass, add minced garlic or anchovy. Or drizzle the whole salad with a warm sizzle of browned butter. And for a cooler, smoother version, whip up an herb-buttermilk dressing.

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No matter how many people and cultures come to the table, the most important thing is to offer an abundance so there's something for everyone.

Salad of Brussels sprouts and kale with pomegranate

Recipe adapted from "A Mouthful of Stars" by Kim Sunée (Andrews McMeel Publishing)

1 to 1 1/2 pounds Brussels sprouts, cored, halved and very thinly sliced

8 ounces (1 large bunch) kale, thinly sliced

Salt

2 to 3 tablespoons fresh torn herbs, such as parsley, dill, chives, etc.

1 firm but ripe pear (or apple), cored and thinly sliced

Shallot vinaigrette (see recipe below)

1/3 to 1/2 cup toasted walnut halves or toasted pine nuts

Arils from 1/2 pomegranate

Garnishes: Shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano or ricotta salata

1. Pat dry the Brussels sprouts and kale and place in a large bowl. Rub leaves with about 1/4-1/2 a teaspoon of salt. Add the herbs and pear. Toss with shallot vinaigrette. Taste and add more salt and pepper as needed. Add walnuts or pine nuts and top with pomegranate. Garnish, if desired, with cheese. Serve at once. (If you make this ahead, keep salad cool and toss with dressing and nuts just before serving.)

Shallot vinaigrette

Makes about 1/2 cup

1 tablespoon minced shallot

1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, preferably Meyer lemon

1 tablespoon Champagne vinegar, red wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

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1/8 teaspoon fine grain sea salt

1 minced garlic clove (optional)

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1. Combine first five ingredients together (and garlic, if using) in a small bowl; slowly whisk in olive oil until well combined.

Kim Sunée ate and lived in Europe for 10 years before working as a food editor for Southern Living magazine and Cottage Living magazine. Her writing has appeared in Food & Wine, The Oxford American and Asian American Poetry and Writing. She is currently based in Anchorage. Her most recent cookbook is "A Mouthful of Stars." For more food and travel, visit kimsunee.com.

Kim Sunée

Kim Sunée is a bestselling author ("Trail of Crumbs: Hunger, Love, and the Search for Home," "A Mouthful of Stars," "Everyday Korean: Fresh, Modern Recipes for Home Cooks") and a former magazine food editor. She's based in Anchorage. For more food and travel, visit instagram.com/kimsunee.

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