Alaska News

Dining review: BurgerFi's premium approach to an American classic pays off

Something to keep in mind before dining at BurgerFi is that high-end ingredients cost more. The restaurant is part of a chain that serves hand-cut fries and all-natural, free-range Angus beef (no hormones or antibiotics) that has never been frozen. BurgerFi also professes "environmentally sustainable best practices" in its design, furnishings and operation.

That's why the basic BurgerFi Burger costs $7.27. It comes with two patties, lettuce, tomato and a sauce that's similar to Thousand Island dressing (but thinner), and the potato bun is delicious. Yet the size of that bun -- slightly smaller than a standard fast-food burger -- is something of a surprise. (One guy I know said, "I thought I'd ordered off the kids' menu.")

Think of how much the cheapest ground beef costs at the supermarket and contrast that price (and product) with the all-natural patties on your plate. This beef has a rich flavor and texture that you simply don't get with mass-market burgers.

Non-carnivores can get a VegeFi Burger ($7.47) made of quinoa and served with white cheddar, lettuce, tomato and sauce. The patty is crispy on the outside and slightly creamy in the middle, and tastes savory rather than "healthy." One member of my party enjoyed the Hippie Veggie ($10.47), two grilled quinoa burgers served with a side of neon relish -- the scary-brilliant green stuff you see on Chicago-style hot dogs.

Both Chicago- and New York-style dogs are available here ($4.97 and $4.27), along with a chicken apple dog ($4.87) and a Wagyu Kobe Beef dog ($5.27). While the New York dog was juicy and satisfying for the 8-year-old at the table, the Wagyu Kobe was tastier. "A truer beef flavor," noted the other adult in the group.

I customized the Wagyu Kobe dog with a couple of the 15 free toppings (including garlic aioli and jalapeno peppers) available for dogs and build-your-own burgers. Another dozen toppers, from blue cheese to a fried egg, are offered for $1.27 apiece.

Fries can also be customized with half a dozen flavors, such as Parmesan and herbs or Cajun spice (87 cents to $1.97). But they're delicious all by themselves. Hand-cut each day, cooked to order and served in generous portions ($3.27, $5.87 and a "bucket" for $6.47), these pommes frites are what spuds want to be when they grow up.

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For extra crunch, my group chose the "fries well done" option. As counterintuitive as it sounds, you can also opt for "fries limp," or slightly undercooked. ("I've seen it once," manager Carolina De Los Santos said.)

Or opt for a Cry & Fries ($5.97), an order of fries and huge onion rings with a crisp and non-greasy coating over a sweetly yielding veggie. My 13-year-old dining companion could easily have eaten a second order (and then likely would have asked for a third). By themselves the rings come in two sizes, for $4.57 and $5.97.

Wash it all down with a fountain soda, if you must, or choose from among fresh-squeezed lemonade ($3.67) or a number of cane-sugar sodas (Coke de Mexico and seven flavors of Boylan's bottled drinks). The orange Boylan tasted "like a Cutie (mandarin orange)," according to the 8-year-old.

Finally, a word about custard. It's closer to gelato than ice cream: rich, dense, smooth and not top-heavy with sugar. That last is important because of all the things custard can become at BurgerFi: floats, shakes, cows (purple or orange), sundaes and, best of all, "concretes" -- parfait-like concoctions so thick they can be turned upside down without spillage.

We tried two concretes, the Red Velvet (vanilla custard layered with the title cake) and the O.M.C. (Oh My Chocolate), which featured chocolate custard layered with peanut butter, brownie, chocolate chips and chocolate sprinkles. Both were as delicious -- and as slightly overwhelming -- as their descriptions imply.

Note: Expect to have trouble finishing these treats after you've eaten burgers and fries. It really is OK to split them among family members.

Frozen desserts range from $4.27 to $6.27, including the build-your-own concrete. All toppings and mix-ins (25 of them) are free, from the usual candies, nuts and fruit to some luxurious touches like Key lime pie, mango and toffee.

On a recent Sunday the joint was jumping as soon as the doors opened at 11 a.m., and fully half the diners were families with young children. Although no toys were attached to the meals, children still seemed happy to be at BurgerFi.

Maybe it was the fries, which are among the best I've ever had. Perhaps it was the fact that their parents were enjoying their food (and maybe a beer) and their happiness affects the kids' mood. Myself, I think it was the custard.

Donna Freedman, a former Anchorage Daily News reporter and reviewer, writes about personal finance and blogs at DonnaFreedman.com.

BurgerFi

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, closes 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday

Location: 700 E. Northern Lights Blvd. (inside the Sears Mall)

Contact: burgerfi.com and 277-3630

Donna Freedman

Freelance writer Donna Freedman is a veteran Alaska journalist who has written for the Anchorage Daily News and many other publications. She blogs about money and midlife at DonnaFreedman.com.

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