Alaska News

Kim Sunée: Confessions of a taco addict

I didn't grow up with the notion of Taco Tuesday. As children, my sister and I (who grew up eating Cajun and Creole fare) used to look forward to Friday evenings, which was hard-shell taco night. We had no regrets saying a temporary adios to the pots of jambalaya and gumbo. It was Tex-Mex all the way.

We'd throw down to see who could eat the most pickled jalapeños without taking a drink of water and we'd try our best to make sure our tacos mirrored the Old El Paso photo of perfectly sliced black olive and cheddar cheese-topped shells.

My tastes have evolved quite a bit since then, and after I traveled throughout Mexico and sought out taco stands in almost every city I visited, my friends one day intervened and made me admit my addiction. I even married a man who, having worked in Mexico for years and lived in Arizona, was also a recovering taco addict.

So what does one do with such an obsession? Explore options and ways in which to eat more tacos, of course. In my new cookbook, I have a whole chapter devoted to my love of roast pork tacos and all things spicy, but lately I've been experimenting with Alaska spot prawns, side stripes, halibut and cod as taco filling options. As much as I love fresh corn tortillas, I've found that fresh cabbage leaves or lettuce cups are a refreshing way to serve tacos -- not to mention that this lighter version allows room for more margaritas.

Here's a quick and easy fish taco recipe for those of you who can't get enough of the combination of chili-spiked salsa, crema and Alaska seafood.

Lightened-up fish tacos

I like cod for these, but you could use halibut, spot prawns or side stripes.

Makes 4 servings

ADVERTISEMENT

1 pound cod filets

Salt and fresh ground black pepper

Pinch ground cayenne pepper

Fine cornmeal or all-purpose flour, for dredging

Canola or olive oil, for shallow pan-frying

1 large head cabbage, quartered and leaves separated

1 bunch radishes, trimmed and thinly sliced

1 large lime, cut into wedges

Tomato-habanero salsa (see recipe below)

Optional garnishes: cilantro, sour cream or crema, jalapeño slices

1. Cut filets lengthwise into about 4-inch strips. Season with salt and black and cayenne pepper. Place cornmeal or flour in a shallow bowl or plate and dredge filets lightly.

2. Pour enough oil into a skillet, preferably non-stick, just to coat the bottom and heat skillet over medium high heat. When pan is hot but not smoking, add fish pieces (without crowding the pan; cook in two batches if needed) and let cook undisturbed on one side, about 2 minutes or until golden. Gently flip to other side and cook another 1 to 2 minutes or until just cooked through and still translucent in the center.

3. Place filets in cabbage leaves and top with radish slices, a squeeze of lime and salsa and allow guests to add more garnishes as they please.

Tomato-habanero salsa

Reprinted from "A Mouthful of Stars" by Kim Sunée (Andrews McMeel)

This is a quick no-cook salsa with hits of habanero chili and garlic. To soften the heat, add some fresh chopped mango or papaya.

3/4 cup chopped ripe tomato

2 habanero or Scotch bonnet chilies, stemmed (and seeded for less heat)

ADVERTISEMENT

2 cloves garlic

1/4 cup fresh chopped cilantro

1/3 cup canola or grapeseed oil

2 tablespoons fresh squeezed lime juice

1/4 teaspoon salt

Combine all the ingredients in a blender or food processor and pulse until smooth but still a bit chunky; taste and add more salt or lime juice, as needed. Store any leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to two days.

Kim Sunée ate and lived in Europe for 10 years before working as a food editor for Southern Living magazine and Cottage Living magazine. Her writing has appeared in Food & Wine, The Oxford American and Asian American Poetry and Writing. She is currently based in Anchorage. Her most recent cookbook is "A Mouthful of Stars." For more food and travel, visit kimsunee.com.

Kim Sunée

Kim Sunée is a bestselling author ("Trail of Crumbs: Hunger, Love, and the Search for Home," "A Mouthful of Stars," "Everyday Korean: Fresh, Modern Recipes for Home Cooks") and a former magazine food editor. She's based in Anchorage. For more food and travel, visit instagram.com/kimsunee.

ADVERTISEMENT