Fairbanks is a year-round destination for travelers from around the world. In fact, there was a party last week on the Riverboat Discovery honoring Condor Airlines' 15 years of nonstop service from Fairbanks to Frankfurt, Germany.
On the international front, the Europeans arrive in Fairbanks, also known as the Golden Heart City, during the summer on Condor's flights. Tourists from Asia tend to arrive in the winter on charter flights from Japan and Korea.
"We have gorgeous scenery and beautiful weather," said lifelong Fairbanksan John Binkley. But really, in Fairbanks, it's about the heart of the people that live here. There's a frontier spirit and they're so open and welcoming. "Fairbanks is a great place to live because of the people," he said.
If that sounds like a description straight out of a travel brochure, it may be because the Binkley family runs a couple of the most popular attractions in town: the Riverboat Discovery and Gold Dredge 8.
Along the banks of the Chena River flowing through the middle of downtown Fairbanks, the Binkleys have a couple of large paddlewheel riverboats, which look similar to those that plied the rivers of Alaska early in the 20th century.
Travelers who sail on the four-deck Discovery III riverboat get a big dose of Alaska tradition in just a few hours. Just after leaving the dock a bush pilot does a touch-and-go demonstration on a grass strip near the river. That's followed by narration on board about Alaska's aviation tradition. Farther down the river is Trail Breaker Kennel owned by Dave Monson, whose wife, Susan Butcher, won several Iditarod races. From the shore, mushers hitch a dog team to a four-wheeler for a mushing demonstration. Still farther down the river, the Chena meets the silty Tanana River. Here, the Binkleys have constructed an Athabascan village to show travelers about the traditions of the area's indigenous people: hunting, crafts and traditional foods.
Lots of folks who take the Riverboat Discovery tour opt for the package deal that includes a visit to Gold Dredge 8 in the Goldstream Valley. "This is an historic site," said Binkley, "but folks still are mining in this valley like they were 100 years ago -- and they're still finding gold!"
The dredge itself is a monstrous machine that used to run 24 hours a day, ripping through the valley floor. With a series of buckets, each holding 8 cubic yards of dirt, the dredge would pivot back and forth on the valley floor. The dredge floated on its own pond so it could swing back and forth with the bucket chain.
Today, the dredge is silent and you can explore the giant engines and shakers that were used to extract the gold. In a nearby building, you can try your hand at some gold panning. Fear not -- they've seeded the dirt with gold, so when you sift through your "poke," there are folks who can weigh it and offer a valuation (today, gold is trading for just under $1,100 per ounce).
Near Gold Dredge 8, you can get a good look at the trans-Alaska pipeline, which snakes 800 miles between Prudhoe Bay and Valdez. You might be inspired to drive the Dalton Highway north from Fairbanks. The highway parallels the pipeline and includes the only bridge over the Yukon River in the state.
Here's a tip: Don't take your rental car on the highway. You can take your own car on the "haul road" if you wish. Many people do. But you might consider going with 1st Alaska Outdoor School, which offers a daily drive north from Fairbanks to the Arctic Circle. The company uses small vans for the 400-mile round-trip tour. You'll cross the Yukon River and get your picture taken at the Arctic Circle.
Northern Alaska Tour Company offers a fly-drive option. Fly north from Fairbanks to Coldfoot for a tour of the area and the nearby town of Wiseman. After lunch at the Coldfoot Cafe, the nation's farthest-north truck stop, continue by van south to the Arctic Circle and on to Fairbanks.
Another great day trip out of Fairbanks is Chena Hot Springs. It's a 60-mile drive from downtown. Owner Bernie Karl is a big proponent of geothermal energy. In addition to the hot springs (both indoors and outdoors), Karl has several greenhouses powered by geothermal energy. There, he grows much of the produce served at the resort's restaurants. Also, geothermal energy provides all the power used at the resort.
There are a variety of activities available at the resort including hiking, horseback riding and ATV rides. Everyone should visit the Aurora Ice Museum. It's $15 to go inside -- it's frozen all year-round. Everything in the museum is made of ice. Much of it is carved by championship carvers Steve and Heather Brice. I love the life-size jousters on horseback. At the ice bar, pay an extra $15 for an "Appletini" served in an ice glass.
There are several great museums in Fairbanks. The first is the Museum of the North on the University of Alaska Fairbanks campus. Explore the Gallery of Alaska and see an eclectic collection of artifacts, bones, boats and clothing. The Rose Berry Alaska Art Gallery offers up both ancient ivory carvings and modern Alaska art. Don't miss it -- especially the giant outhouse.
The Fountainhead Antique Auto Museum offers one of the most diverse and exotic collections of antique cars anywhere. Owner Tim Cerny has collected more than 80 vehicles, including cars built in the late 1800s. There are old Model T Fords (including one on skis), Cords, Auburns and Cadillacs. It is the perfect destination for the auto enthusiast in your family. Cerny and the museum staff also have more than 100 vintage costumes from the era, plus historic photos and archival videos.
Pioneer Park (formerly known as Alaskaland) has several great exhibits, including the riverboat Nenana. It's up on blocks in the middle of the park. It's free to go inside and explore. Also at Pioneer Park, you'll find the Pioneer Air Museum. There are many old aircraft on display, including a 1943 Noorduyn Norseman. This Canadian aircraft is similar to those planes that flew in the Lend-Lease program during World War II as a search-and-rescue plane. This plane also flew for Alaska Airlines between 1956 and 1961.
Looking around in the museum, you'll see many experimental aircraft hanging from the ceiling, plus memorabilia from Alaska's flying legends, including Noel Wien, Carl Ben Eielson, Joe Crosson and others.
If you're looking for refreshment, choose from two breweries in town: HooDoo Brewing is close to town at 1951 Fox Ave. I was there on a warm, sunny day and all of the beers were very popular. If you don't know which beer to choose, get a flight of six beers, all of which are made in Fairbanks. You're bound to find one that you like.
The other popular local brewery is Silver Gulch Brewery, which is out of town in Fox, near Gold Dredge 8. You also can sample their beer at the Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport. Silver Gulch has a restaurant, as well, both in Fox and at the airport. I'm partial to the India pale ale, but there are several other great varieties on tap.
If you need a good cup of coffee, I recommend McCafferty's at 408 Cushman St. in downtown Fairbanks. They roast their own beans and offer up a particularly tasty Americano. This is a fun coffeehouse with a limited selection of cookies and sweets to go with your coffee.
Don't wait too long to catch the long summer days in Fairbanks. Both Ravn Alaska and Alaska Airlines offer daily flights. The Alaska Railroad runs a train north each day. You also can opt to fly one way and ride the train on the return. Or you can drive. It's a long drive. Stay two days. Or three. Or you may end up like the Binkley clan and fall in love with the Golden Heart City.