BUTTE — "Is that the top?"
Those four words, usually accompanied by a pointing gesture, are a refrain that characterizes a recent hike to Pioneer Peak's south summit.
At an elevation of 6,398 feet, the peak itself isn't visible until about three miles up the Pioneer Ridge Trail. As a result, hikers seeking an indicator of their progress are left with two options: trail markers placed every 200 feet along the trail or the several false peaks before them.
[Photos: Hiking 6,000-foot-plus Pioneer Peak]
A magnificent summit that looms over the Matanuska-Susitna Borough, Pioneer Peak is one of the more accessible 6,000-foot-plus peaks in the Chugach Mountains. Don't mistake accessibility for ease, however. The elevation gain and hike length, about 12 miles round trip, can turn your knees into rubber over the course of 10 to 14 hours. But for any hiker ready to graduate from Flattop, Pioneer is a next logical step.
"It is an iconic valley hike," Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking's Shane Prosser said, adding that the prominent view of Pioneer Peak, which is often shrouded in clouds, enhances its allure.
Visually, "it is the one that stands out, and it is harder than Matanuska (Peak)," said Paul E. Denkewalter, owner of AMH.
From a mountaineering perspective, Denkewalter explained, Pioneer may not be terribly difficult, but for hikers the summit can pose a challenge.
The hike up Pioneer Peak can be divided into two distinct segments. First is the 4.5-mile Pioneer Ridge Trail, which winds through dense forest — the 10,000-foot distance marker in particular seems to mark "Jurassic Park" territory — before the terrain opens up around the 11,000-foot distance marker.
Breathtaking, wide-open views of the Knik River and Knik Glacier await those who managed to slog to the first picnic table along the trail, near the 11,600-foot distance marker. If there's a crowd at the first picnic table, continue uphill for a bit to reach a second picnic table with more privacy.
After this point, vegetation along the Pioneer Ridge Trail begins to give way to tundra. Hazards turn from roots to loose dirt and rocks, and false peaks abound. The trail flattens out, then grows steeper; a pattern that continues for about 10,000 feet, according to the distance trail markers.
There are no reliable water sources, so hikers should bring plenty of water, especially on a hot, sunny day.
After nearly three hours of trudging uphill, the north and south summits of Pioneer Peak finally come into view with 1.5 miles left on the ridge trail, providing added motivation to those with flagging spirits — but again, beware the false peaks.
Respite at 5,300 feet
A flat clearing with a third picnic table supported by stacked rocks marks the top of the Pioneer Ridge Trail, elevation 5,300 feet. For hikers planning their trip up Pioneer as an overnight, this is an excellent spot to set up camp. For ambitious day hikers, this is where you can catch your breath and celebrate reaching the top of the Pioneer Ridge Trail as you eyeball your next goal: the peak itself.
From this point, the hike takes a more dangerous turn and will command most of your attention. The 1.5 miles or so to the south summit take you along a dramatic, rocky ridgeline with steep drop-offs, loose rock and scree. Young children and less able-bodied/sure-footed adults should not attempt to reach the south summit. Hikers wary of scrambling and scree may take longer to work their way up. During my eight months in Alaska, I've only met one dog who could do it.
The trail toward the summit becomes less well-defined, with multiple paths visible. Route-finding skills are useful here; it's very easy to follow a path only to discover that you've gotten yourself into a hairy situation that may involve more steep climbing than you're comfortable doing.
To be safe, stick to the rightward paths on the ridge — and prepare yourself, physically and mentally, for some scrambling. Depending on the route you choose, you may scramble or cross more scree than other hikers. There will be a couple of false peaks on this route, too.
The south summit of Pioneer Peak is marked with a tattered American flag and, as of early August, a string of prayer flags. From the top, the views are stunning.
See how massive Knik Glacier truly is and trace your way along the massive ridgeline you traversed. To fortify your Alaska mountain knowledge, bring a map and identify all the prominent peaks in sight (Mount Marcus Baker, the Twin Peaks, Bold Peak, Baleful, Matanuska Peak, among others).
'Weird scree'
From the south summit, you'll spot the north, or "true" summit, across the saddle.
A caution about the true summit: It should only be attempted by experienced climbers. A friend of mine, a lifelong Alaskan, headed up the north summit while the rest of us watched safely from the south. When he came back, he mentioned "weird scree," deceptively loose rocks and several vertical cliffs that he aptly described with a single gesture: his hand held flat, straight and perfectly upright. His description alone was enough to make me appreciate solid ground.
Once you've soaked in the views, descend cautiously, and be sure not to lose sight of the main trail. I learned this the hard way on my first trip to Pioneer, spending more time plodding through scree than I would have liked.
Once you hit the Pioneer Ridge Trail, it's a cruise downhill to your car.
Just watch for rocks and roots, and as you remember those 360-degree views at the top of the summit, start planning your next hike up another peak. At least, that's what I'll be doing.
Reach Vicky Ho at vho(at)alaskadispatch.com and follow her on Twitter at @hovicky.
IF YOU GO
• Length: 4.5 miles to top of Pioneer Ridge Trail, another 1.5 miles to south summit.
• Elevation: 5,300 feet at top of Pioneer Ridge Trail, 6,398 feet at top of south summit; start at 200 feet at the trail head.
• Parking fee: $5 Matanuska-Susitna Borough day-use fee.
• Directions: About 40 miles northeast of Anchorage. Head north on the Glenn Highway, then take the Old Glenn Highway exit after Thunderbird Falls. Turn right on Old Glenn and continue for about six miles. As you approach the Knik River Bridge, stay to the right to continue on Knik River Road. After four miles, turn right into the Austin Helmers-Pioneer Ridge Trail parking area.