Alaska is home to three species of ptarmigan: willow, rock and white-tailed. Whitetails are the smallest; distinguishable from rock and willow by their size and all-white tail feathers. They seldom flock in groups larger than a single family. Rock and willow are a bit tougher to separate, but they have completely different calls and for the most part occupy distinct habitats.
Rock ptarmigan spend much of their time above the brush line on open slopes. Their call is often described as a growling "kurr, kurr." Willow ptarmigan are the largest of the ptarmigan species and the most numerous. They are common in all of Game Management Unit 13 and plentiful along the Denali Highway.
This fall season may be one of the best for ptarmigan hunters in many years. The early spring, followed by a hot, dry summer, gave the chicks much needed time to feather out. Cold, wet weather while the chicks are still downy is the greatest killer of young ptarmigan. Normally young ptarmigan along the Denali are too small to shoot when the season opens Aug. 10, but this year is an exception.
Unit 13B has a very short bird season, beginning the 10th and ending the last day of November. About a decade ago, the Denali ptarmigan population was in a steep decline. Bag limits and seasons were reduced to minimize the effects of late season snowmobile hunting. Ptarmigan numbers have rebounded dramatically. The short season remains in place to protect the rock ptarmigan population, but bag limits have increased.
Rock ptarmigan numbers remain low in many areas of Unit 13. While not quite as accessible during the early season for roadside hunters, rocks are extremely vulnerable during the winter. They often decline to fly when shot at and many times will remain on open slopes where they are easily visible.
Willow ptarmigan are generally flightier and tend to congregate in heavy willows. In early October, they begin to gather in large flocks sometimes numbering about 500 birds. At this time, the birds are still in family groups of 8-12 birds. The birds that frequent the Denali Highway are holding close to the ground in the willow thickets due to all the airborne predators.
Merlins and goshawks share in the population bounty and are far more common than usual in the high country. Raptors overhead make birds reluctant to fly far. Hunters working the Denali will benefit by having a good bird dog along.
Be ready for quick short jumps on birds. t would be wise to carry some smaller shot sizes for close-in shooting. If you are without a dog, remember that wounded birds will continue running on the ground in the direction of the parting flock.
The recent snow in higher terrain has kicked many ptarmigan out of the mountains into the lower willow draws. They have begun to switch feed from berries to dwarf birch and willows. The result will be more birds working the roadside, especially as moose season ends and the vehicle traffic abates.
No doubt, it's a long 500-to-600-mile roundtrip from Anchorage or Fairbanks to hunt for a few birds. However, it is a hunting opportunity that has a high success and satisfaction rate. The Denali Highway is only open officially until Oct. 1. After that date, driving can become iffy in a normal snow year. Many years, there is not enough snow to make snowmobile hunting reliable before the November season ends.
Should hunters choose to make the trek to Unit 13 for birds (there's a few ducks around, too), bring good gear. Mornings are frosty. Rain mixed with snow is common. Polar fleece or wool underlayers and full rain gear outer garments are necessary if you wish to hunt in any comfort. Knee boots or hip waders are a plus.
Many grouse hunters prefer a 20-gauge shotgun. I normally lean toward a 12 gauge, but closer-than-normal shooting this fall makes the 20 a good choice.
And don't forget an alarm clock. Ptarmigan get up early.
John Schandelmeier is a lifelong Alaskan who lives with his family near Paxson. He is a Bristol Bay commercial fisherman and two-time winner of the Yukon Quest.