Culture

Kitcheree is a delicious cleanser amid holiday surfeit

I'm standing in the kitchen planning December holiday meals while also revamping Thanksgiving leftovers -- one of the moments I look forward to most after the big feast day -- when I hear one of my out-of-town guests moan that she's going "liquid and no butter." Water. Tea. And more water is what I assume. But when she mentions Champagne and I raise an eyebrow in question, she replies somewhat defensively, "What? Champagne doesn't have butter in it."

I realize that it might be time to put away the porcini gravy and oyster stuffing, and set out ingredients to make a cleansing pot of yellow split peas and rice, which actually tastes much better than it sounds. This North Indian-inspired dish, known as kitcheree or kitchari, literally means a "mess or mixture."

Think of this as a very clean twist on humble rice and beans. I like to sub in quinoa, bulgur or farro. As for the spices, use any combination you prefer, but don't omit the turmeric, a powerful antioxidant, which adds color and warmth as well as amps up the detox factor. And if you're making this dish to help with digestion or as part of a cleanse, hold off on adding chilies or pepper and salt. Best of all, it's vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free and butter-free -- a perfect in-between "mess" of a dish to take you from feast to feast.

Kitcheree

Makes 4 to 6 servings

1 cup dried yellow split peas or dried yellow moong dal (moong dal are smaller and cook a little faster)

1/3 cup quinoa

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1/3 cup jasmine rice or bulgur

1 tablespoon coconut oil (or canola or avocado oil)

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

1 teaspoon ground cumin

2 teaspoons grated fresh turmeric root, grated or 1 teaspoon dried turmeric

1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger

2 stalks celery and/or 1 carrot, sliced

1/2 teaspoon salt (optional)

4 cups water or vegetable broth

1 cup kale, collards or spinach, thinly sliced (optional)

1 to 2 tablespoons tamari or Braggs

Fresh chopped cilantro and lemon wedges, for serving

1. If using dried yellow split peas, soak in hot water while prepping the other ingredients. If using moong dal, there's no need to soak. Place peas or moong dal, quinoa and rice together in a fine mesh sieve and rinse thoroughly under running water; set aside.

2. Heat oil in a large heavy-bottom pot with lid over medium-high heat. Add mustard seeds, cumin, turmeric and ginger to the oil and cook, stirring occasionally, for a few minutes until spices are fragrant. Add celery, carrot and salt, if using. Add rinsed peas, quinoa and rice to the pan and stir, coating with the spices and oil. Add broth and bring liquid to a boil. Reduce heat to a low simmer and cover pot. Cook, without removing lid, until peas and rice are soft but not mushy, about 15 minutes (for moong dal) and 20 minutes (for yellow split peas). Note: If using farro or brown rice, cook time will be longer, so adjust liquid and time accordingly. Stay off heat. Remove lid. There might be some liquid left that hasn't been absorbed; gently stir in thinly sliced greens, if using. Cover and let sit 10 minutes. Serve with tamari, fresh chopped cilantro, and lemon wedges.

Kim Sunée is the best-selling author of "Trail of Crumbs: Hunger, Love, and the Search for Home" and "A Mouthful of Stars." She lived in France for 10 years before working as a food editor for Time Inc. For more food and travel, visit kimsunee.com and instagram.com/kimsunee.

Kim Sunée

Kim Sunée is a bestselling author ("Trail of Crumbs: Hunger, Love, and the Search for Home," "A Mouthful of Stars," "Everyday Korean: Fresh, Modern Recipes for Home Cooks") and a former magazine food editor. She's based in Anchorage. For more food and travel, visit instagram.com/kimsunee.

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