HATCHER PASS — Finding equal footing while recreating outdoors has taken a definite turn in our house. Whether it's growing up, growing older, or both, our family of three now has definite preferences about who enjoys what activity, when, and how.
Granted, some days we stuff our tween, attitude and all, into the back of the SUV along with skis, boots, poles and cheese sticks and expect him to like it for the sake of family togetherness. But more often than not, my husband, son and I find ourselves as sides to a triad of outdoor experience and preferences; connected but not always headed in the same direction.
Some days the three of us need to do our own thing, and when that happens, we head to Hatcher Pass.
Located in a swath of alpine terrain amid the Talkeetna Mountain Range, the Hatcher Pass Management Area is 300,000 acres of summits, glaciers and lakes, all just a 90-minute drive from Anchorage.
A mix of Matanuska-Susitna borough, state and private land, Hatcher Pass and the surrounding areas are well-known by visitors and locals who flock there in the summer for stellar hiking, berry picking and a narrow-but-scenic drive from a gravel west-side entrance road. On the east side, day-trippers prowl Independence Mine State Historical Park, an abandoned hard rock gold mine that operated between 1906 and 1941.
Now partially restored for the benefit of visitors, the mine, "boomtown" site and surrounding trails are testament to Alaska's frontier spirit and its dedication to the outdoors.
But winter is a completely different experience. Gone are the hordes of RVs and walking tours, the photographers and lines of cars making their way across the steep, precipitous pass. It's snow season.
Arriving anytime between late August and October and sticking around until at least May, snow is one reason Hatcher Pass is a reliable a go-to spot for anyone seeking a fix for their winter adrenaline rush. From simple sledding to arduous treks into the backcountry, Hatcher Pass runs the gamut of family fun opportunities, with just enough diversity to meet nearly everyone's skill level and interest. Here's how we handle things:
Nordic skiing. Kids with a solid base of nordic ski skills will enjoy the long, looping road from Hatcher Pass Lodge to Independence Mine State Historical Park. It's long -- almost a mile to the mine, but a gradual climb that allows frequent breaks for snacks makes it quite doable for families. With groomed surfaces and set tracks for classic and skate styles, this is an excellent bet for multi-generational skiing.
At the mine site, allow ample time to explore the buildings that once housed a store, school and offices of the Alaska Pacific Consolidated Mining Company. Also fun are the Gold Mint and Archangel trails as you ascend the road from Palmer-Fishhook, but note that snowmachine traffic can be plentiful on a winter afternoon, and you'll miss out on the interesting landmarks the mine site offers.
Alpine skiing and snowboarding. Older kids who are savvy backcountry skiers or boarders will enjoy a schuss down the Mile 16 Ski Trail. This four-mile run takes skiers and riders through totally ungroomed alpine territory on the way to the pick-up spot at Mile 12. Adventurous family members should be able to navigate rough, unmaintained terrain. Carry a backpack of snacks, water and emergency gear, and always wear a helmet.
Sledding. Thankfully, the folks at Alaska SnoCat do a great job of maintaining not only the ski trails but an impressive sledding hill as well. It doesn't look like much — a rectangle carved out of Hatcher Pass' signature dry snow — but boy, will your little rippers fly down the slope. Located near the parking lot and bathrooms, the sledding hill is usually where our kid heads first to fly over the bumps and jumps left behind by other adventure-seekers. Helmets are highly recommended, and watch out for the multitude of other things on the hill — sleds, skis, snowboards, you name it.
• Snowshoeing. A wonderful aspect of Hatcher Pass is the sheer volume of terrain that begs for the romping, stomping feet of snowshoers. While the nordic skiers appreciate your cooperation in staying off their carefully manicured trails, the parallel side of those trails works well for snowshoeing. Head up the Independence Mine Road a bit to the north and cross the creek. The deeper snow there is exactly right for snowshoes. Snowshoeing is also plentiful at the mine, but again, heed the trails and stick to unmarked powder. I you have hardy tweens or teens, head up toward Gold Cord Lake Trail and a bit of altitude. Always carry a backpack with food, water and extra clothing, and use ski poles for stability.
• Apres fun. When everyone has skied, snowshoed or sledded themselves to exhaustion, we usually meet at the cozy Hatcher Pass Lodge, a few hundred feet beyond the Independence Mine parking lot, where the road ends in the winter. With nine cabins, a restaurant, bar and an exceptionally warm coal-fired stove, the lodge is our stop for cocoa, fondue and a particularly delicious hot buttered rum.
What you need to know
• Avalanche danger: Hatcher Pass Management Area is a known avalanche zone. Risk varies depending upon where you recreate, but all users, especially those in the backcountry and along the ascending slopes of the bowl area, should always be cautious. Avalanche reports and current conditions can be found at the Hatcher Pass Avalanche Center, and it is highly recommended to check the website before any visit.
• Winter daylight: Especially near solstice, daylight is fleeting, and sunshine barely peeks over the mountains before ducking back down. It is cold and often windy at Hatcher Pass, especially near the mine, so prepare kids with appropriate layers, hats, mittens and face guards.
• Parking: It costs $5 to park at the Independence Mine lot unless you have an Alaska State Park Pass. There is some parking along the road and in lower lots, but heed signs and realize that you will be ticketed for parking in the wrong place.
Erin Kirkland is author of Alaska on the Go: Exploring the 49th state with children and publisher of AKontheGO.com, Alaska's only family travel resource. Connect with her at e.kirkland0@gmail.com.