Once we hit leaf-out day, I always field lots and lots of questions by email -- and in person. Finally! We can plan and plant in the absence of frosts for a few months.
First up, spring pruning. A reader asked, what should be and what shouldn't be pruned this time of year?
It is hard to give a complete list, but in general, most things can be pruned. One big exception are lilacs, which formed this summer's flower buds last August. If you trim these plants now, then you will be cutting off flower buds. Best to wait until they are actually in flower to prune back. Incidentally, moose browse lilacs during the winter, which is why you may not have blooms this year.
Another is clematis. These are popular plants, and there are more and more varieties that do well here. However, they produce off old wood, so do not cut the old vines expecting to get lots of new growth. It looks dead, but it isn't.
I suppose a third exception might be birch trees. This is because these puppies are rushing sap up from the roots where starch has been stored all winter and is now being redistributed so the plant can get growing. Wounds will "weep," or pour out sap. The tree won't die, but it is messy. Birch syrup, anyone?
I am not a believer in using anything to cover exposed cuts after pruning. The important thing is to make sure there is enough of the cut limb remaining so that the plant can form a collar around the wound. Then let nature do its thing. The plant knows how to repair itself and does not need any salve.
Do last year's producing raspberry canes need to be cut back? This is not really pruning, but necessary only to keep things clean and orderly. Many people do cut a foot or more off of the canes that will be producing this year in order to neaten up their bushes and make them manageable. You can tell the canes that need to be removed because they have old fruit parts on them.
Next, how deep should you rototill? What? There is no need to rototill existing gardens. To do so actually harms the soil food web, so don't do it. You only have to disturb the area you are planting in. Use a stick to make a small furrow for rows of seeds. Use a trowel to dig holes to put individual plants into. The only time you need to rototill is when you are converting lawn or woods into a garden bed. And even the lawn can be left unrototilled if you simply pile soil on a bed first lined with the Alaska Dispatch News, several sheets thick.
What about bare root stock? When does it arrive? This is a term that refers to the plants that are brought up here in big bundles and are individually planted by the receiving nursery. Often, you can buy these trees and shrubs before this happens and save a lot of money. This is the way to build a hedge, for example. Now is when you want to make inquires to your local nursery. Ask when the sales will take place. Tell them what you need. They may be able to still order for you.
Someone asked what hose connectors were. These are either brass or plastic attachments, one female and the other male. The females are attached to faucets and the males to your hoses, sprinklers and other watering gadgets. Once installed, all you have to do is push and pull to connect and discount things. No more twisting and leaking because of poor seals, assuming you check all your washers as you install your watering system this weekend.
Here is a new one: Is it OK to simply sweep or blow the driveway gravel and sand from winter snow control onto the lawn? Yup, though if you have been doing this for several years, you may want to find another place to put this stuff. The pebbles and sand work their way into the lawn and actually help drainage. It is important that you get it off the drive so it doesn't grind away the asphalt.
Next, what to do about lawn moss is probably the most-asked question this week. Unfortunately, simply putting down lime will not get rid of the moss you have. You have to kill it with MossOut or another product. Then you will need to rake it all up once it turns black. Then someone has to raise the pH of the lawn soil and then replant it. It is a lot of work.
Or you could just leave it. It is green, soft and pretty. In fact, in our climate, it usually stays green all summer without watering. It never needs fertilizing. Weeds don't grow into it, and if they do, they are easy to spot and remove. There are places in Japan that would kill to have natural growing moss on a lawn scale. Just saying.
And finally, another new question to this column: Is it time to plant cannabis seeds if you plan on growing plants this summer? You bet. Indoors, of course, for a few weeks first. And here is a plant that responds wonderfully well to those endomycorrhizal fungal mixes. Roll your seeds in some before planting.
However, just remember that for the first time in your life, planting comes with rules. This is, in my opinion -- and I am just going to say it because someone has to step outside of the hysteria, ignorance and fear for once -- simply outrageous. The law says six plants, three of which can be in flower. Imagine if you were restricted that way in growing tomatoes or something like Brussels sprouts (which I swear can kill you if you eat too many). Folks!
Anyhow, what this means is that you need to know what you can and can't do. Find that information here: www.commerce.alaska.gov/web/amco/MarijuanaInitiativeFAQs.aspx.
Jeffs Alaska Garden Calendar
Wildflower Class: This four-week class taught by Dr. Marilyn Barker and Verna Pratt meets each Wednesday in May. More information from the Alaska Botanical Garden at alaskabg.org. Limited space: Rush on this one!
Junior Master Gardener Day Camp: This is a fantastic opportunity for your kids ages 7-12 to learn to garden in Alaska under the tutelage of a real master, Patrick Fish Ryan. The eight-week camp begins June 7 and runs through Aug. 4. More information is at alaskabg.org.
Vegetable seeds to start in individual containers: Squash, cucumber, tomatoes
Flower seeds to start in containers: Cannabis, canary bird vine, silene, arctic poppy, California poppy, sunflower, morning glory, sweet pea, Shirley poppy, nasturtium, marigold, balsam, calendula, clarkia, zinnia, bachelor button, scabiosa, nemesia
Lawns: Let yours dry out. If you are applying an chemical nitrogen fertilizer, do it in the next few weeks.
Dandelions: Time to apply corn gluten to prevent new seeds from germinating. It lasts about six weeks. It is not cheap.
Jeff Lowenfels has been writing this column for 40 years and never missed a week. He is the author of the best-selling, award-winning books "Teaming with Microbes" and "Teaming with Nutrients," which will become a trilogy with the impending publication of his third book. He can be reached at jefflowenfels@gmail.com.