Seattle is a popular stop for Alaskans. But the San Juan Islands, nestled between Seattle and Victoria, BC, offers more beauty per square foot than Seattle's urban trails.
Friday Harbor on San Juan Island is the most popular port-of-call in the islands. The quickest way to get there from Seattle is to drive to Kenmore Air's downtown seaplane base at Lake Union. You can park right by the dock. The flight is about 40 minutes and offers spectacular views of the Seattle skyline and the the coast. Like many Alaskan floatplane operators, Kenmore flies Beavers and Otters to Friday Harbor, as well as to many other island destinations in Washington and British Columbia.
If you don't want to fly--or you have more time, take the two-hour drive north from Seattle to Anacortes, where you can catch the state ferry to Friday Harbor. The walk-on fare is $13.15 each way! This is how most folks get to the island.
Once you arrive, walk up the road about a half a block, where you'll see a booth for Susie's Mopeds. You can choose from a little scooter, a three-wheel "scoot car" or a little "Tracker" convertible. Susie knows everyone in the small island community and she's mapped out a convenient itinerary for the 48-mile loop around the island. Be sure and leave some time at the beginning or the end of the loop for browsing the artsy shops around Friday Harbor.
Susie whips out a map and writes upside-down with a highlighter so you can follow along. There are national historic sites on either side of the island (American Camp and English Camp), commemorating the "Pig Wars" in the late 1800s (no shots were fired). Susie also highlights where there are beautiful vistas (we were filming)--you can see downtown Victoria, BC from several spots. On the west side of the island is Lime Kiln State Park, where you often can see whales or porpoise frolicking.
San Juan Island is mostly farmland, although the biggest crops in recent years have been vacation homes for urban dwellers who want to smell that beautiful sea air! But there are several farms along the route, including the Pelindaba Lavender farm. Even if the lavender is not in bloom, it's worth it to stop in and just smell the stuff! They make all sorts of lotions and potions from this wonder-herb. You'll be hooked by the time you continue on your loop-tour! Choose from sachets, candles, soaps, balms and a variety of jewelry. Can't go wrong!
We stopped at the beautiful port of Roche Harbor for lunch. This port is at the north end of the island and is home to some of the nicest-looking watercraft I've seen in my life. My traveling partner, Nola Palmer, sails with her family on their boat up here during the summers. So she was able to help me steer clear of the spendy restaurant. Instead, we grabbed a lamb burger on the pier overlooking several kayakers heading out for the day.
On the way back to Friday Harbor, we stopped and visited San Juan Winery, where they grow their own grapes for a couple of different white wine vintages. Additionally, they bring in wonderful Syrah grapes from Eastern Washington to blend some red wines. It's worth it to stop in for a tasting!
If you're serious about seeing some Orca whales while you're here, go out on the 60-foot Odyssey with Peter and Erin. The young couple bought the boat last year and know exactly where the whales are.
Another popular activity is kayaking--either in Roche Harbor or Friday Harbor. Since the shops are right by the ferry terminal (and Kenmore Air's pier), you can design your adventure around your transportation schedule!
We spent a full day on the island, but many families spend the whole summer. Still more spend a couple of days or a long weekend here. After one day, you'll get a taste for island life--and you'll want to come back. I do!
Online resources:
Kenmore Air. These folks run a super-clean operation. Several flights each day from downtown Seattle's Lake Union. www.kenmoreair.com
Susie's Mopeds. A great way to spend a sunny day on San Juan Island! www.susiesmopends.com
San Juan Excursions. Cruise on the Odyssey. N-i-c-e boat. www.watchwhales.com
Northwest Classic Day Sailing. Captain Ward Fay will take you out for a sail on his classic sloop, the "Aura". www.classicdaysails.com