Alaska News

One dead, one rescued on Mt. McKinley

One climber is dead and another in the hospital after a Thursday fall near the 20,320-foot summit of Mount McKinley. The survivor, a client on a guide expedition up North America's highest peak, was saved by the efforts of his guide, National Park Service rangers, and rescuers from the Alaska Air National Guard.

But one of two uninjured climbers the guide sent back to the 17,200-foot high camp after a rope team of four fell while descending North America's highest peak ended up dead. How he perished has yet to be determined, but he somehow became separated from his companion, who was later spotted off-route on the Autobahn by other climbers in camp at 17,200 feet.

The Autobahn, so named for the speed at which people have fallen to their deaths after slipping high on the route, is a dangerous place to be. Climbers in high camp rallied to go out and escort the lost man back to safety.

Winds were raging across the top of the mountain at the time of the accident, making travel difficult. Gusts were reported to be near or close to 70 mph, strong enough to knock people off their feet. It was unclear, however, as to whether the gusting winds contributed to the initial fall of the guide and three clients, or the subsequent death of one of the clients.

The names of the people involved have yet to be released pending notification of next of kin. The death is the first of the 2011 climbing season on Mount McKinley, though another climber died in a freak accident in the Ruth Gorge earlier this year.

A rescue was completed in heroic fashion.

Contact Craig Medred at craig(at)alaskadispatch.com.

Craig Medred

Craig Medred is a former writer for the Anchorage Daily News, Alaska Dispatch and Alaska Dispatch News. He left the ADN in 2015.

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