At Midsummer, I'm still planning itineraries for visitors coming up from the Lower 48. Typically, the first night or two is booked at "Chez McMurren." The neighborhood is pretty good, but my friends are warned that they may need to share their couch with a dog -- or two. Welcome to Alaska.
Over the years, we've fine-tuned several trips. These include our own city tour (featuring the Alaska Native Heritage Center, the Anchorage Museum and Alaska's Botanical Garden), Alyeska (with an optional extension to Portage Glacier), Seward (Kenai Fjords tour, SeaLife center, Exit Glacier) and Talkeetna (flightseeing, jetboat ride, Mountain High Pizza!). I never miss playing "tour guide" on these trips. Every single one of them is a long day well spent!
One of my favorite multi-day trips is what I call the Golden Circle: up the Matanuska Valley to Glennallen, then south to the Copper River Princess (near Copper Center). Whether I'm headed to Kennicott on the Edgerton Highway (McCarthy Road) or to Valdez, I like to stop there at the bar for an espresso. It's also a great place to grab a late lunch. There's free wireless and great views of the Klutina River, the Wrangell Mountains and the trans-Alaska Pipeline. When I drove the route last week, it took me an extra hour because of all the photo stops. But the extraordinary views of the Matanuska Glacier and the river valley made it worth the extra time!
A trip into Wrangell-St. Elias National Park adds a couple of days onto the itinerary. Plan at least two nights at Kennicott Glacier Lodge, or the McCarthy Lodge in "downtown" McCarthy. Flightseeing, glacier hikes, mine tours -- there's lots to do. Otherwise, it's a straight shot down the Richardson Highway to Valdez. Just before Thompson Pass, you can get good views from the road of Worthington Glacier. Stop at the parking lot and hike right up to the ice!
On the final stretch to Valdez, you'll pass through Keystone Canyon and right by two beautiful waterfalls: Bridal Veil Falls and Horsetail Falls.
Plan on at least two nights in Valdez: the first after you arrive from your 300-mile drive. If you get there in the afternoon, go by the Whitney Museum at Prince William Sound Community College. It's an incredible collection of Alaska Native art -- in an unexpected venue. Ivory, baskets, clothing, furs -- all on display in a beautiful setting. Plan on spending at least an hour checking out all the goodies! It's free.
The next morning, go on one of Stan Stephens' glacier cruises. The most popular is the trip to Mears Glacier and Columbia Glacier. Mears is an advancing glacier, so they can sail right up to the face, according to Colleen Stephens, Stan's daughter. And Columbia Glacier is retreating, which means the bay is littered with huge icebergs bigger than the 80-foot boat! "So far this summer, we've seen whales every single day," she said.
We opted for a kayak trip with Pangaea Adventures, which is adjacent to the harbor and the Best Western hotel. They have a water taxi which runs you out to Shoup Glacier -- about a 40-minute ride. From there, you can paddle across a lake, through a stream and up to the face of Shoup Glacier. Along the way, there is a huge Kittiwake rookery -- and lots of incredible scenery. Pangaea also offers kayak trips to Columbia Glacier.
Lots of folks come to Valdez to go fishing for salmon and halibut. There are many charter boats available--or you can fish for salmon from the beach. We went across the bay to the fish hatchery, where anglers were reeling in the pink salmon from the mouth of the creek. We also saw a mama bear and her three cubs prowling around for some fish -- much to the chagrin of the hatchery staff!
Instead of driving all the way back from Valdez to Anchorage, we opted for a trip on the Alaska Marine Highway. The
fast ferry, the M/V Chenega, operates daily between Cordova, Valdez and Whittier. The M/V Aurora also plies the route. I like the 12:15 p.m. departure time for the Chenega -- plus it's just three hours across the sound (it's a six-hour ride on the Aurora).
Even though we were zipping across the water at 40 miles per hour, it still was easy to pick out sea lions on the beach and the occasional raft of sea otters. But a ride on the Aurora definitely offers more time to see the critters along the way, including the whales and eagles.
The Valdez itinerary is a guaranteed "A-plus" tour for visiting friends and relatives. In fact, you might make the run yourself in advance to check it out.
Online resources:
Stan Stephens Cruises. These folks offer several tours including one to Columbia Glacier, as well as the Mears-Columbia combination.
Pangaea Adventures. Kayak adventures are lots of fun, especially when you can get close to the glaciers!
Maxine and Jesse Whitney Museum. Don't miss a visit to this museum. My friends in Valdez hounded me until I finally did it. It's worth the trip!
Scott McMurren is an Anchorage-based travel marketing consultant who has lived in Alaska for three decades, spending much of that time traveling the far-flung corners of the state. Visit his website at www.alaskatravelgram.com.