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Manzanillo's sun, food enchanting

My friend Hank Pennington over in Chiniak doesn't play the "Kiss and Tell" game. Although he's generous with tips on tackle, you cannot get him to reveal where he caught that lunker trout. He simply won't give it up.

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I'm the opposite, especially when it comes to tropical getaways. Right now, I'm watching the sun come up over Bahia de Santiago on Mexico's Pacific Coast. I'll die happy if I can see just one more sunset while the waves crash against the rocky cliffs below here in Manzanillo.

The sun is not the exclusive allure of Mexico, although it's a requirement for snow-bound Alaskans. You can find sun in Palm Springs or Maui -- and they speak English there. Honestly, you may not find the words for what draws you here on your first trip. It could be the food -- it's delicious. It could be the fragrance -- it's enchanting. On this clear morning, it's the light that really does it for me. The soft, amber rays seem to caress the fronds on the palm trees as the sun rises.

We avoided renting a car at the airport in Manzanillo. Instead, we found Vasa Car Rental downtown. They will bring your car to your hotel or condo and provide driving directions. The cars are clean, but they're not cheap: ours costs more than $53 per day, which includes the mandatory liability insurance.

After dropping our bags and taking a swim, our first stop was the bakery: Panaderia La Espiga de Oro. It's in downtown Santiago, a small community just west of Manzanillo. If you're coming from the west, turn left at Juanito's restaurant. It's about three-quarters of a mile up the hill. You'll likely smell it before you see it. They bake about 1,000 loaves a day. Choose from fresh-baked bread, doughnuts and tasty pastries of all kinds.

Speaking of Juanito's, the restaurant has the best cheeseburgers on the beach.

If, however, you're craving American-style fast food, you can drive into Manzanillo, where you'll find a Burger King right across from Wal-Mart. Next to Starbucks.

Santiago Bay has a wonderful beach that's about three miles long. It's a favorite playground for travelers and locals alike. During the Christmas break, many folks from Guadalajara make the three-hour drive to the coast.

But as soon as we lathered up with sunscreen, we headed west up the coast to Bahia de Navidad. Like the bay at Santiago, Bahia de Navidad has a beach that stretches for about three or four miles, from Barra de Navidad on one end to Melaque on the other end. We like Melaque. We planted our beach gear near a small RV park that boasted American and Canadian flags. We ordered chips, salsa and soft drinks from the beachfront restaurant for about $6 and went swimming in the warm Pacific Ocean. There were dozens of pelicans flying around, occasionally diving for fish nearby. Vendors strolled the beach, hawking jewelry and crafts. A simple "No, gracias" was all that you needed to say if you did not want to buy anything. Melaque is a 45-minute drive from Manzanillo. Nearby, there is great snorkeling at a coral reef.

Barra de Navidad is a great place to explore and grab a bite to eat. We took a water taxi across the bay to "Restaurant Mary" where we ordered fresh shrimp by the kilo. The town is squeezed onto a narrow peninsula, full of tiny shops, inexpensive hotels and restaurants.

Scott McMurren is an Anchorage-based travel marketing consultant. Contact him via his travel blog: www.alaskatravelgram.com

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