Barbera from the Piedmont (Italy) can be truly spectacular. It has a depth and richness unlike anything else. The purity of fruit is thrilling. That said, I don't run into very many -- but the 2010 Ellena Barbera d'Alba is definitely in the game. What a treat! The wine is subtly nosed with black fruits and perfumes. The mouth is singularly rich with silky concentrated dark red berries -- no tannin and no oak. Just seamless black fruit and beautiful length. Hard to find but worth the effort. Costs about $20.
-- Michael McVittie reviews wines available locally