Anchorage Daily News

I've long been a proponent of wool clothing for outdoors use. As far back as my teenage years, I chose chunky wool sweaters for hiking over bright polar fleece colors that flooded the market.

Twenty years later, I still choose wool whenever possible, and still use those chunky sweaters from time to time.

Luckily the wool industry has figured out that today's outdoorspeople are not just interested in staying warm.

They appreciate performance.

Wool that is lightweight, itch-free, can wick away moisture and repels body odors is much more desirable than the thick, scratchy wool of yesteryear.

The downside: It's expensive. A simple wool T-shirt, made of the lightest Merino wool on the market, goes for $69. A long-sleeved shirt begins at $75 and can cost as much as $140.

That's an investment.

But think of wool gear as you would your tent or sleeping bag. Unlike some synthetic clothing, which may become stained and retain body odors to the point of becoming rancid after a year of use, wool gear lasts.

And therein lies the challenge.

During the wool industry's renaissance in the early 1990s, only a few companies offered what they considered high-tech gear. It was easy to find -- there wasn't much on the shelf.

Today's choices, however, can boggle the mind. The competition is heating up and now consumers can be more selective when choosing their base layer, cycling jersey or long underwear.

And it can be daunting, plopping down $100-plus while trying to guess which manufacturer's product will work best.

That's where this review may help. By comparing four well-tested long-sleeved shirts under varying conditions over the past year, I've ferreted out the good, bad and ugly of each.

The wool-makers include Ibex, a Vermont-based company; SmartWool, one of the pioneers in outdoor wool gear; Icebreaker, a New Zealand company; and Swobo, a bicycle company that also makes cycling gear. These shirts (and jersey, in the case of Swobo) have been dog mushing, skiing, hiking, biking, running, kayaking and river rafting. They've been to Valdez, Kachemak Bay, Hatcher Pass and Glennallen. They've been wet and dirty, dry and clean.

Here's what I liked -- and disliked -- about each one.

I realize there are other wool-makers out there too -- Patagonia, Sugoi and JonesWares, to name a few -- but hopefully this synopsis will help narrow your search for the best wool gear.

• SWOBO: Women's Long Sleeve Merino Jersey, $135 at swobo.com but can be found for less on discount sites.

I'm not really sure the jersey is even wool, although the "100-percent Merino wool" tag tells me otherwise. It wears like cotton and fits like Spandex. And did I mention that it is just so cool-looking? Swobo cycling gear is, to me, the Mercedes of wool biking gear. Ibex makes it, but their fit is not yet perfected. Sugoi offers it too, but their designs are bland.

Swobo got it right. Not only do Swobo wool jerseys last, but they come in great-looking colors and fit perfectly. I like the way the neckline does not zip all the way up the neck, causing that choking sensation. And I like the deep, double rear pockets (although ultimately a three-pocketed version of this jersey would earn extra points).

The verdict: Best-looking

• ICEBREAKER: BodyFit 200 Base layer, $75, icebreaker.com but like Swobo can be snatched up at various discount sites.

What a disappointment this base layer turned out to be, and I had such high hopes for this New Zealand company, which uses wool from the sheep right there. While the Icebreaker has proven to be adequate for running and hiking, it is not really warm enough for other Alaska activities; its 260 series, at $100 a top, is designed for colder weather.

But the real disappointment is the quality of the garment. After just a few uses, it began showing stains at the neckline and armpits, where sweat accumulates.

And the claim that wool doesn't retain body odors? Hate to say it, but my Icebreaker is getting a bit ripe, despite proper washings. Unlike the other wool tops, Icebreaker's has a feel more like silk than its counterparts, which is nice. And I suspect its 150 series, designed for all weather, would make a nice option for summer wear.

The verdict: Most disappointing

• IBEX: Zephyr Crew, $85, ibexwear.com.

This is my go-to shirt for cool temperatures, to be worn under cycling jerseys, running T's and sweaters. It's soft as cotton but lasts much longer and wicks away sweat on long, hard runs. After countless wearings, it's still as new-looking as the day I bought it, showing no signs of wear.

It's particularly good as a cycling base layer because it wicks away moisture, allowing for chill-free descents.

It constantly comes untucked, though, an irritating design flaw that makes warding off cold more difficult. If it were a bit longer in the torso, this would be the ultimate crew.

The verdict: Best cold-weather gear

• SMARTWOOL: Women's Midweight NTS Zip-T, $80, smartwool.com.

SmartWool figured out wool clothing in the mid 1990s, first with its socks, made of a wool blend that promised not to make anyone scratch their ankles raw from itches. The company moved on and now creates functional base layers and fashionable outerwear. Go to any major outdoor retailer and SmartWool will be there.

My aging SmartWool midweight T is no longer made.

That's a shame -- today's version, the midweight NTS Zip-T, doesn't have the cool thumb loops at the wrists that make pulling on gloves and sweaters much easier.

But after literally hundreds of wearings -- it's the oldest piece of functional wool gear I own -- it still performs as if I'd bought it yesterday.

No stains or no body odors. No loose seams or faded colors. It's nice enough to wear on a casual night out but warm enough to layer under a parka while dog mushing.

The verdict: Best all-around

Where to find these products locally

• Swobo can be found at Speedway Cycles, www.speedwaycyclesak.com, 2600 Spenard Road (222-1967)

• Ibex is available at Skinny Raven Sports, www.skinnyraven.com, 800 H St. (274-7222); The Sport Shop, 570 E. Benson Blvd. (272-7755); Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking, www.alaska mountaineering.com, 2633 Spenard Road (272-1811); World Cup Sports, 194 Hightower Road, Girdwood (783-2282); and Speedway Cycles.

• SmartWool can be found at Skinny Raven Sports; The Sport Shop; REI, www.rei.com, 1200 W. Northern Lights Blvd. (272-4565); and most other large outdoor retailers in Anchorage.

• Icebreaker can be found at Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking.

-- Melissa DeVaughn

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