Deliciously new

Restaurant features reasonably priced Japanese and Korean dishes

By Riza Parsons
Daily News correspondent

Published: August 6th, 2009 09:49 PM
Last Modified: August 7th, 2009 10:04 AM

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MARC LESTER / Anchorage Daily News

The best friend roll at Tempura Express includes spicy tuna, crab, fish tempura and tobiko. In back is the mixed tempura dish.

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Tempura Express is housed in a brand-new strip mall by one of Anchorage's epicenters of recent construction, so new that one expects a whiff of still-drying paint and treated lumber to waft forth upon opening the door. Instead, it has a pleasant aroma of rice cooking and savory meats. The menu is printed above the counter with the benefit of photographs, boasting combination plates and a wide variety of rolls.

A friend and I sat at one of the rough-hewn pine tables that furnish the space to decide more comfortably. I liked the atmosphere immediately; the walls are green-tea and peach-colored, with butterfly and flower decals adorning the expanses of glass. The thought struck me that I'd never before been in an Asian restaurant that wasn't really old or used to be something else, like a Taco Bell. Ah, progress.

Although seemingly Japanese, there are also Korean choices. The bulgogi combo ($9.95), a marinated barbecued beef dish, caught my eye, but I was interested in their sushi, teriyaki and of course, tempura. Its sushi selections follow a fairly standard path with the ubiquitous crunch roll made from shrimp, crab, avocado, cucumber and panko ($7.95) and spicy tuna roll ($7.95), mixed in with the Mr. Kim special roll, a mix of shrimp tempura, eel and salmon ($10.95) and jalapeno popper roll, a deep fried roll with jalapenos, cream cheese, shrimp tempura and crab ($6.95) for some diversity. I decided on the best friend roll ($8.95).

The tempura offerings are numerous as well. Red snapper ($7.95), soft shell crab ($9.95) and oyster tempura ($8.95) vied with each other for honor of place in the deep fryer. The only sensible thing to do was to get the mixed tempura ($8.95) and be done with it.

The cashiers were friendly and chatted with a few other people who were also waiting for their food. We didn't have to wait for very long. Our sushi came out looking like spin-art, and the mixed tempura was steaming fragrantly. I did lament the fact that all of the containers and plates were made out of Styrofoam, which were given to us even though we were dining in the restaurant. Just my eco-conscience rearing its organically shampooed head.

Each table is equipped with a tray full of squeeze bottles of sauces and various condiments. Soy sauce, unagi sauce, Sriracha and tempura sauce, just to name a few. Don't get too crazy, though; our roll was already liberally dressed and for the sushi purists out there, perhaps detrimentally so. The roll itself was well-constructed. Spicy tuna and flaked crab were enveloped in a portion of fish tempura and topped with tobiko. The best part of the roll was the tempura. The fish was fresh, and its coating lent a nice crunch to the layers of flavor.

The mixed tempura was just as it should be. Used to overcooked morsels and leaden batter, I found this tempura to be delicately crispy. It enhanced, rather than obliterated, the food. Our order included red snapper, halibut, shrimp and vegetables. The broccoli was tender but not mushy; the squash was a sweet contrast to its slightly salty overcoat; and the halibut was a hands-down favorite. As with almost all things fried, addiction was instantaneous.

My next meal there was a pick-up order that was made all the more convenient by the presence of a drive-through window. You do have to call ahead, but I was already thinking how nice it would be in the winter when getting out of a car means battling the elements. I chose the beef teriyaki combo ($9.95), also available in chicken or pork. The combos include potato and onion tempura, a green salad, a scoop of rice and a soda.

I was impressed by the sauce, clearly house-made, and the cut of beef, which was tender and beautifully pink in the middle. A perfect medium temperature and I didn't even have to request it. The add-ons were a nice touch, making my lunch a reasonably priced, filling feast.

The owners, Suki Kim and Sang Kim, have plenty of experience but have never owned a restaurant before. Mr. Kim hails from Samurai Sushi on Muldoon and has trained in the sushi arts all over the world. His specialties also include teriyaki and tempura and this is apparent.

Anchorage residents are delighting in the flurry of shopping opportunities that seem to be popping up around every corner. Now they have something delicious to look forward to; dining establishments that can satisfy appetites with great prices and well-executed dishes. Tempura Express may be new, but its food reflects a venerable institution of skill.

Tempura Express

*** $$

Location: 3024 Mountain View Drive, Unit 101

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Saturday, closed Sunday

Phone: 770-7022

Options: Dine in and takeout

Want to rave or pan? Write your own review of this restaurant or any other recently reviewed place at play.adn.com/dining.

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