Chase the chills: Dining

Exhale outside, and steamy vapors escape into the cold air. But inhale inside Pho Vietnam, and steamy vapors from bowls of soup will thaw even the coldest of souls.

The restaurant, open only a few months near the corner of Denali Street and Benson Boulevard, serves a typical selection of traditional Vietnamese dishes with a few Thai options thrown in for good measure. And the variety of ingredients should satisfy most hungry stomachs, whether they're hankering for a hardy meat-and-starch meal or a light vegetarian bite.

Two friends and I tried the restaurant for lunch about a week ago, when temperatures were cold enough that just the thought of hot pho (Vietnamese noodle soup) had us craving the cuisine. We were encouraged immediately by the warm wave of spices that hit our noses as we walked in and sat among the cluster of wooden tables.

Like its neighboring strip mall stores, Pho Vietnam's decor is limited by the abundance of glass on two walls. And basic fluorescent lighting doesn't always flatter one's food or mood. But that day, winter sun poured through the windows, welcoming us with warm rays that illuminated amber broths and curls of steam rising from bowls and plates on nearby tables.

What to choose from on the menu? It all sounded good. Pho Combo ($10). Pork Chop With Steamed Rice ($9)? Pad Thai Noodles ($9)?

We settled on appetizers of Fresh Spring Rolls (three for $6.95) and Tofu Fresh Rolls (three for $6.50). Admittedly, we were a bit confused by the "fried" description our server gave us about the tofu rolls; only the tofu squares inside were fried. But the extra set of fresh rolls didn't mean extra leftovers at our table. All six rolls, divided in half, were devoured happily, as we praised the crisp mint and cilantro, fresh lettuce, al dente noodles and tender chicken and shrimp tucked into soft wraps. The accompanying thick peanut sauce was a delicious dip with chunks of nuts and carrots in the dark mix.

For our meals, we chose Tom Kha With Vegetables ($9), Vietnamese-style Pancakes ($10) and Spicy Noodle Soup ($10).

The Tom Kha soup arrived in a huge bowl with a small side of white rice. Pieces of carrot, cauliflower, straw mushrooms and ginger bobbed in the golden liquid flavored with coconut milk. It was mild in spice heat but it was wonderfully warm in temperature heat, and there was enough of it to provide lunch-times smiles that day and the next with leftovers.

The Vietnamese pancakes were more like fluffy stuffed omelettes. The mix of flour and coconut milk was folded over shrimp, pork, bean sprouts and other veggies for a toasty but light meal.

One of my dining companions, who admitted to loving good soup and loving spicy food even more, hadn't blinked when ordering the Spicy Noodle Soup. What could go wrong? Especially when it was served with a garnish plate of aromatic cilantro, romaine lettuce, basil and slices of jalapenos and lime.

Before she dived in, she invited our other friend to taste it. She did and yelped, "It's hot!" before clamping her hand to her mouth.

Across the table, our friend arrogantly thought she could handle it. Wrong. After about 10 or 12 spoonfuls, she went sputtering to the bathroom to clear her lungs. When she returned to the table, tears streaming and eyes bloodshot, she waved the white flag of her napkin and asked for a side of rice to cut the heat. With that addition, the soup became a delight. "Damn good," our friend said.

About that moment we noticed that several customers where quietly sniffling into their bowls too. One man even wiped his brow with a handkerchief.

But all kept lifting spoons to appreciative lips. When the weather is cold, Pho Vietnam knows how to warm your spirit, stomach and sinuses.

Got a restaurant tip, a new menu, a favorite dish or a chef change? Send an e-mail to jrogers@adn.com.

Pho Vietnam

Location: 3030 Denali St., Suite 1

Hours: 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday- Saturday, 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Sunday

Phone: 929-9938

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