Food and Drink

How Alaska eats: Egg-citing recipes that are hard to beet

Newsletter #44: Not yolking

It all started with this doll-sized carton of quail eggs I picked up at New Sagaya Midtown Market a couple of weeks ago for $3. I had to have them, but what to do with tiny eggs? Pickle 'em, suggested a friend. I happened to have a big gnarly beet from last season lying around. Pretty soon, with pretty minimal effort, I whipped up some beautiful magenta beet-pickled eggs.

Quail eggs aside, if you celebrate Easter, I anticipate you’ll find yourself in possession of some hard-boiled eggs pretty soon. You might think about making Maya Wilson’s smoked salmon deviled eggs or her sinful smoked salmon egg salad sandwich.

The egg is one of the world’s most versatile foods, but cooking technique is everything. Kim Sunée has a collection of 13 egg recipes, including a nice recipe for how to soft boil one in soy sauce. Do you want to soft boil eggs for brunch this weekend but are worried about getting it perfect? Maya Wilson can walk you through it.

[Read previous newsletters here. Find more Alaska recipes here.]

Mara Severin has been busy eating on your behalf and has lots to say about Matanuska Brewing Company Anchorage. (And look here: They serve Brussels sprouts with a poached egg!)

[Like to cook Alaska-style? Don’t miss a recipe. Get this newsletter delivered to your inbox every Friday: Sign up here]

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I’m going out right after I finish this newsletter to see if Fire Island Rustic Bakeshop has any more tsoureki, braided Greek Easter bread with a whole egg in the middle. (Here’s the one I scored last year.) Oh, speaking of sweet, baked things, get this: Photographer Marc Lester interviewed the new pastry professor at UAA. Guess what her name happens to be? Kellie Puff. How perfect is that?

If you don’t already, support local cooking and local food news and subscribe. Oh, and here’s a radio story where I make lunch with gluten-free noodles made out of a mystery Alaska ingredient. Give it a listen.

Here’s hoping you don’t have to hunt Easter eggs in the snow (even though it is tradition).

RECIPE: ALASKA BEET-PICKLED EGGS

Julia O'Malley

Anchorage-based Julia O'Malley is a former ADN reporter, columnist and editor. She received a James Beard national food writing award in 2018, and a collection of her work, "The Whale and the Cupcake: Stories of Subsistence, Longing, and Community in Alaska," was published in 2019. She's currently writer in residence at the Anchorage Museum.

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