Add sunny Mediterranean flavor to your winter with this olive oil citrus cake

As we near the spring equinox and gravitate toward brightness in both the sky and in the kitchen, here’s a citrus-forward cake with bold flavor from zest, as well as tenderness from yogurt and extra-virgin olive oil in lieu of butter or cream. If you’re new to this Mediterranean favorite, start by choosing an olive oil that’s labeled “virgin” or “extra-virgin” and cold-pressed — not treated with chemicals; less acidity — and make sure it’s fresh, not rancid. As when cooking with wine, choose an oil that you would actually enjoy consuming, a favorite you’d drizzle on a salad or for dipping bread. As for flavored oils, again use one that’s high-quality and that you enjoy on its own.

Boost the citrus flavor with lots of zest and juice in both the cake and the glaze; play around with your favorites, I always seem to go for the fragrant, thin-skinned Meyer lemons for this, but grapefruit and regular lemons or clementines are solid choices. I also tested a gluten-free version by swapping out the all-purpose flour for Bob’s Red Mill Gluten-Free 1-to-1 Baking Flour. When measuring flour, it’s best to weigh it, but you can also stir the flour and then scoop it into a measuring cup, then level the top by scraping a knife across the surface. Any leftovers can be sliced and lightly toasted and topped with lemon curd, yogurt or ice cream.

Side note: I tested with these EVOOs: Global Gardens’ blood orange extra-virgin olive oil that’s nicely balanced and works just as well in a vinaigrette as in a cake; Costco’s Kirkland brand Italian extra-virgin olive oil; Partanna Sicilian extra-virgin olive oil; and my favorite: Tuscan Bramasole Olive Oil.

Olive oil citrus cake

Makes one 9- by 5-inch loaf

Oil, for greasing pan

3 Meyer lemons (or regular lemons or limes, or 1 large orange)

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour (200g) or Bob’s Red Mill gluten-free 1-to-1 baking flour*

1/3 cup almond meal/flour (45g)

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

3 large eggs

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup good fruity olive oil, preferably extra-virgin

3/4 cup plain yogurt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract or almond extract

For the glaze: Juice and zest of 1 lemon or lime or orange (about 1/4 cup juice) + about 3/4 cup powdered sugar, as needed; toasted sliced almonds

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9- by 5-inch loaf pan (use cooking spray or a pastry brush to grease pan well; line bottom with parchment; grease parchment and dust lightly with flour or almond meal (gluten-free), tapping out any excess; set aside.)

Zest lemons; set zest aside. Juice lemons into a small bowl or measuring cup (about 1/2 cup); set aside. In a medium bowl, combine all-purpose flour (or gluten-free 1 to 1 baking flour), almond meal, baking powder and salt (whisk to remove any clumps). In a large bowl, whisk together eggs and sugar until pale and well-blended; whisk in olive oil (1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon), yogurt, vanilla extract, half the reserved lemon zest (about 1 tablespoon; leave some for the glaze) and half of reserved lemon juice (about 1/4 cup). Add in dry ingredients and whisk just to combine, being careful not to overmix; the batter should hold together but will be on the wetter side.

Pour batter into prepared loaf pan (it should fill up a little over half the pan) and bake for 55 to 65 minutes, rotating pan halfway through baking time. NOTE: If making a gluten-free version, start checking cake for doneness after 50 minutes. Cake will be fragrant and ready when a tester — toothpick or knife point — inserted in center comes out clean; a few crumbs are OK. Remove cake from oven and let cool 10 minutes, then flip out onto a rack to cool completely.

While cake is cooling on rack, whisk together juice and zest with powdered sugar, adding more sugar for a thicker glaze. Turn cake right side-up and drizzle with glaze; top with toasted almond slices.