The last dog race of the season on the highway system was this past weekend at Tolsona Lake near Glennallen. The snow is still good, but going fast. The weather was a bit warm for racing dogs, but ideal for recreation.
The 100-mile race, held over two days, is organized by Kurt and Julie Wilson, owners of Tolsona Lodge. The trail travels north to Crosswind Lake. Once out on the trail, it quickly became apparent that dog mushers weren't the only ones enjoying spring weather.
The mushers met numerous snowmobiles on the trail, most headed out to their cabins or to the lake to fish. The Crosswind trail leaves the Glenn Highway from Tolsona and travels 15 miles to the lake. There is also a trail from Lake Louise, though that route is a bit longer. Crosswind Lake is a popular destination for lake trout and burbot.
The dog trail passed the shoreline of Crosswind and there were numerous spots where I could see fishermen jigging near the points. I couldn't see if there was any catching, though. In fishing, like most endeavors, success comes in striving for the objective (a 20-pound lake trout), rather than the fish itself.
As with any large lake, where to fish is a mystery if one is unfamiliar with the water. The best plan is usually to head for the outlet or inlet on a big lake. But use extreme care near all lake inlets and outlets. There is almost always open water and potentially dangerous ice conditions, especially as spring approaches. Crosswind is a very warm lake with open water on both ends throughout the winter.
Crosswind has an enhanced sockeye salmon run, too. Approximately 10 million fry are released there every spring from the Gulkana Hatchery near Paxson. The fry stay in the lake – where they make great feed for lake trout and burbot -- two or three years before heading to the ocean. The fry begin their migration to the sea in May. I would bet predator fish that call Crosswind home know that, and head for the outlet, too.
Rapala lures work well for trout. Lead-head jigs, either red and white or chartreuse, in the 1-2 ounce range can be effective. Spoons such as Dardevles will also catch fish, though I have found those spoons tend to target smaller fish.
Burbot spawn in March and early April. They feed through spawning and are relatively easy to catch. Aggressive feeders, burbot will take lures that have red or white on them. Burbot eat a lot of sculpins, which live on the bottom of lakes, so keep your lure there. Typically, the best depth for burbot is 12 to 20 feet. Only single-hook lures are allowed on Crosswind Lake, and bait may be permitted after April 15. Herring are effective, especially when cut. Salt your herring so they keep relatively fresh in the warm April weather.
After noon on the dog trail, the team was constantly dipping snow to cool down in the hot sun. I fought the urge to call them up faster. Instead, I let them set their own pace in the warm temperatures.
I looked to the sky, thinking about how the first swans will soon arrive. Paxson Lake will have trumpeters at the outlet by April 7. Snow buntings and kestrels have arrived already.
April is one of the best months to be outdoors in Alaska. Forty degrees in April feels like 70 in September. Get out on the lakes and catch a fish. Go for a drive and see which birds are arriving. Drive to Arctic Man and watch the snowmobilers go nuts. Whatever the excuse, April is the month to get outdoors.
John Schandelmeier is a lifelong Alaskan who lives with his family near Paxson. He is a Bristol Bay commercial fisherman and two-time winner of the Yukon Quest International Sled Dog Race.