Snow kidding -- the skiing and boarding conditions are sweet atop Alyeska

GIRDWOOD — The morning air was heavy and damp as I slipped and slid across the parking lot of the Alyeska Resort day lodge. Above me, the upper mountain was partially obscured by a layer of misty fog that clung to lower slopes and muffled the sounds of morning routines. Warm and wet, I thought to myself. There won't be much action on the hill today.

In between spits of drizzle and occasional sun breaks, my son and I puttered around the bottom half of Alyeska's trail system all morning, enjoying but not fully embracing the grainy coverage of mostly man-made snow that lay upon runs called Gummy Worm and Christmas. It was fun, uncrowded, and by all accounts, a worthwhile way to spend a Friday. Other people must have thought so too, because the parade of cars into Alyeska's parking lot continued in a steady stream of headlights well after the lifts opened at 10 a.m.

Alyeska Resort is the state's largest ski area, featuring 1,610 acres of terrain and a panorama of scenic eye candy that commands attention, no matter the season. With Mount Alyeska serving as a cornerstone to this glacially-carved valley 45 minutes from Anchorage, the resort historically boasts an annual snowfall of 600 inches or more between October and April. I say "historically" because for the last two winters, Alyeska's snowfall has dwindled to 476 inches and 478 inches —half of what it received during the 2011-12 winter. The dry spell has been on the minds of everyone in this small community, where the area's seasonal success depends upon winter's weather whims, and so far this season, 366 inches have been recorded.

Di Whitney, Alyeska's general manager, surprised me, a skeptic, with reports of epic conditions at the summit when I inquired last week.

"It is full-on winter at the upper mountain," said Whitney. "People may look out their window (in Southcentral) and get discouraged, but up there, it's super-fun, soft skiing — fast and carvable."

Wait, what?

I wouldn't have believed it had my 11-year-old and I not climbed aboard the Alyeska Aerial Tram for the 2,300-foot ride from the gritty base area to a summit of powdery goodness.

Currently, Alyeska Resort claims to lead the nation in total snowfall so far this season, a surprising fact to many snow-hungry Southcentral residents.

Anchorage's Mike Ward, a longtime Alyeska season pass holder, was nothing short of enthusiastic after skiing the upper bowls.

"The whole mountain is skiing great right now," he said. "What a lot of people don't realize is that even with warm temperatures and little snow in town and at the base of the mountain, it's been dumping higher up. This season is shaping up nicely."

Slick, groomed, and with myriad options for testing one's skiing or riding mettle, the upper mountain is primed for the remainder of what has turned out to be an amazing year, and Alyeska's summit services reflect the resort's effort to entice more people to the top. Lifts start running at 10 a.m., when those traveling to the top via the Day Lodge area can load Ted's Express, a high-speed quad chair that whisks skiers to the top for transitions to the Glacier Bowl Express.

Snowboarder? Hit up the Compression Rail Park at the top of Ted's and bust a few freestyle moves before heading either up or down for a break.

Those choosing to park near Hotel Alyeska, or lucky enough to stay there, can ride to the top on the Aerial Tramway, where the slopes await moments after popping into skis or boards — worth the warm, enclosed four-minute ride.

The tram terminal also offers refreshments and relaxation after a few hours of carving turns. The Bore Tide Deli is open daily from 11 a.m.-4:30 p.m. and is a great spot to settle in with a sandwich and bowl of homemade soup while watching others navigate the tricky double-diamond terrain below the deli's windows. The Roundhouse gift shop and museum sits perched on a corner of the terminal's western edge and is a must-see gallery of vintage photos from the resort's early days. If you're really thinking of living it up, the famous Seven Glaciers Restaurant opens for lunch noon-4 p.m., and for après ski bites 4-5 p.m. Cheap it's not, but perfect for a celebration or family splurge.

For parents skiing or riding Alyeska with kids, a few notes of caution are advised, says Whitney. For all the glorious snow and sweeping, high-alpine runs up top, those areas are not for beginners. In fact, no beginner terrain (identified by the green circle on trail maps) exists on the upper mountain, so young skiers should be able to link turns, travel at a safe speed, and stop before venturing up the lift or tram.

Whitney also emphasizes the value of ski or snowboard lessons at Alyeska, especially during January's Learn to Ski and Snowboard Month special of $99 for gear rental, three lessons, and a lower mountain lift ticket to build skills.

I'm a skeptic no more. Craggy mountain peaks, happy guests, and a powder day that stretched before us like an endless carpet of white.

Not too shabby, especially in a year Anchorage's official snowfall is just 25.8 inches this winter. Not too shabby at all.

Alyeska Resort publishes a daily snow and mountain status report useful to anyone headed to the mountain, online or by phone (907)- 754-7669 (SKI-SNOW). Keep in mind that conditions can and do change often.

For a complete listing of ticket prices, hours, and Mountain Learning Center lesson availability, visit the Alyeska Resort website at www.alyeskaresort.com.

Erin Kirkland is author of Alaska On the Go: Exploring the 49th state with children, and publisher of AKontheGO.com, a website dedicated to family travel and outdoor recreation. Connect with her at e.kirkland0@gmail.com.