Food & Drink

Fearless food

Mike Dodge is a lifelong Alaskan, but in the kitchen he's a citizen of the world.

Dodge is executive chef and partner in Anchorage's two Hott Stixx Restaurants, and his menus take diners to Jamaica, Japan, China, Thailand, Israel and Indonesia, among other destinations. One popular stop is Alaska - salmon, halibut, scallops, crab and produce pack the menu.

Dodge, 30, has worked in some of Anchorage's top kitchens but now cooks and creates by his restaurants' motto: "International Innovation with Alaskan Ingredients." It's a bold approach, and bold can backfire in the restaurant biz. But Dodge has found success -- after quickly establishing the original location in South Anchorage, Hott Stixx recently added a downtown spot.

Dodge talked to Play about maintaining the balance between pushing the culinary limits for Alaskans' palates and crashing over the edge, all while having fun with food.

Play: How does someone who spent his life in Alaska begin a career creating foreign cuisine?

Mike Dodge: When I started working at Sacks Café, I walked into a team of amazing chefs, and it kind of humbled me -- I felt like I hadn't learned anything yet. I learned about catering to guests and using new and exotic products. It was a different world of cooking for me. In my four years there, it really became a passion. ... Now I love having the freedom of owning my restaurant. I can create anything I want and put it on the menu. My mind always wants to go Asian, but it's also fun to go different places.

Play:Talk about the Hott Stixx motto and bringing it to life.

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MD: I grew up around Japanese culture and my business partner is Chinese. We wanted to go international, but figured if we went just Asian fusion we would limit our menu. ... And being raised in Alaska, I always used Alaskan ingredients and products. Most of the places I worked really drove that into me: support local, eat local. ... Now I work directly with farmers year-round. I'm still getting carrots, parsnips and beets. ... And I think that all of Alaska's seafood works with international flavors. We have the best seafood in the world. ... Having fresh products and knowing where they come from helps you make the dishes.

Play: Finding Alaska produce in winter is one thing, but how do you locate some of the more exotic ingredients used in your dishes?

MD: Certain specialty products are harder to find in Alaska, but I work closely with (New) Sagaya Markets and they bring in a lot of Asian groceries. ... I also go to all the Asian markets in town and search the aisles for obscure things or anything to make our dishes better. ... Getting product here isn't as challenging as you'd think. Keeping product on shelf is the hard thing if I start going through it.

Play: How have Alaskans' palates responded to such a diverse menu?

MD: Alaskans like bigger portions of food and they don't like bizarre foods. I wouldn't say that holds me back, but it is a challenge sometimes. So I arrange foods I like but stay reasonable instead of outside-of-the-box. We have a big rib-eye steak, but we do it Korean barbecue style. ... I think our ostrich definitely pushes the limits. It's in a soy stout marinade with a nice rare sear on it. But if people try it they usually really like it. ... There are ways to get guests to try new things, and it also separates us from other restaurants.

Play: Have you ever pushed the limit too far?

MD: We put shark on the menu and it didn't sell. It was a breed that isn't going extinct, but there's a stigma behind eating it. The word shark turns people away from ordering it.

Play: You use so many international flavors in your cooking. What are some of the most exciting elements you work with?

MD: We use a lot of curries. One of the dishes is Chinese beef stew curry. And we have different Thai curries. I love the flavors and spices that come in with curries. It's all about finding the right depth in the spices. Anyone can make spicy food, but making something flavorful is where the technique comes in. ... We have so many curries we stay away from them when we come up with specials.

Play: It has to feel pretty cool to win over a reluctant diner with one of your adventurous dishes.

MD: When people do try something different, they'll ask about the ingredients. They get inspired and want to try other dishes or try to cook them at home. It's exciting to make a dish someone's never tried before and see how it goes over. A lot of times, it goes over really well.

By Josh Niva

Daily News correspondent

Josh Niva

Josh Niva is an Anchorage freelance writer. He's a former reporter and editor for the Anchorage Daily News.

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