Outdoors/Adventure

Why did we wait so long to explore Seward-area trails?

PTARMIGAN CREEK — Most of my familiarity with trails along the Seward Highway comes from recognizing the distinctive brown and white signs as we whiz by on our way to another destination. One after another the names and recreational symbols tempt us for hiking, biking or fishing. Every time, I turn to my husband and say, "We really should stop some day."

Finally, we did. A weekend trip to the Ptarmigan Campground, smack at the start of one of those aforementioned trails did the trick, and handily.

The Seward Ranger District is part of the 5 million-acre Chugach National Forest. The western 890,000 acres is dedicated to the Seward District, with its dense spruce forests and easy access from the Seward Highway. Coming or going from Anchorage, the district is flush with recreational bliss. If we stop.

Fortunately, the weekend's camping adventure was just the encouragement we needed to stop waiting and start exploring. It also helped that Ptarmigan Campground is located just a short distance from the Seward Ranger District offices at Mile 23.5. Here, we chatted up the staff and grabbed several information sheets describing area hikes suitable for kids. Over the campfire that night we discussed our options. Should we drive and hike, or begin right there at the campground, no blacktop required?

Perfect for a range of abilities

In the end we did both, thanks to a long weekend and a pack of restless kids who needed to burn off the multitude of marshmallows consumed during our planning session. One day we hiked to Grayling Lake on the west side of the Seward Highway at Mile 13.2.

The next, kids, dogs, and parents moseyed from the campsites to the trailhead for an adventure along Ptarmigan Creek (Mile 23). Each hike — ranging from 2 to 7 miles —was a distinctive look into the flora and fauna of the Chugach, perfect for the wide range of ages and abilities in our party.

Grayling Lake is a gentle, sloping trail leading hikers through conifer forests and wet muskeg, with a few small creek crossings for good measure. Kids will find the hippity-hops around and over roots and rocks to be a fun exercise in balance, and we all had fun trying to identify several birds that flitted around in the trees. The information sheet boasting about low foot traffic on the trail was on point, save for a few hardy souls braving a rainy Saturday. I imagine trail use is heavier during berry season, though, since the crowberry, blueberry and high-bush cranberry bushes were plentiful, much to our delight.

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A nice feature of Grayling Lake is also the option of connecting to neighboring trails like Meridian, Leech, or Long Lakes at 3 miles or less. The Primrose campground is a little further, a distance of 6.5 miles.

Snow was still evident in shaded areas of the trail, a reminder of this year's wet, cold spring. But our well-dressed kids made quick work of jumping in soggy drifts and tossing snowballs at each other.

At a short distance of 13 miles from the town of Seward, Grayling Lake is within easy reach of families staying overnight in town, or those looking for a stopover on their way from Anchorage before embarking on other Seward activities.

Great accessibility

Ptarmigan Creek Trail winds along its namesake waterway for about a mile before climbing a short distance and offering views of the rocky, canyon-like landscape. The Forest Service trail crews have done excellent work on the first 3/4 mile of the hike with wide, gravel tread and wooden walkways that intrigued smaller kids. An abundance of spruce trees, devil's club, alder and a few cottonwood trees provided interesting foreground to the scene, and we even came upon a startled grouse as we came around a corner.

Ptarmigan Lake is 3.5 miles from the campground and makes for a fine turnaround point for hardier hikers, but the Forest Service reports that trying to hike around the lake can be difficult for kids due to an abundance of cow parsnip and alder.

The real bonus of Ptarmigan Creek Trail is accessibility. For a few of the families along, it was a novel thing to hike right from the campsite and return, hungry and tired, to a campfire ready for lighting and s'mores ready to roast.

Curious about more Seward Ranger District trails, or any trail within the Chugach National Forest? Stop by any district ranger office or visit the agency's website, where maps, information, and regulations can be found.

Ptarmigan Creek camping information can be found via ReserveAmerica, the Forest Service's contractor for reservations.

The Forest Service cautions hikers to be bear and moose aware while exploring the area. We carried bear spray, made noise and traveled in a large group, so we felt comfortable on each hike, but we did see bear and moose scat. Remember to pack plenty of water, snacks and extra clothing, as weather conditions can change rapidly on the Kenai Peninsula. During one hike we experienced rain, wind and glimpses of sunshine in the span of an hour, so dress kids in layers and take frequent breaks to check up on everyone.

Above all, don't do like we did and wait 10 years to hike trails right under our noses.

Erin Kirkland is author of the Alaska On the Go guidebook series and publisher of AKontheGO.com, a website dedicated to family travel and outdoor recreation.

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