Travel

Emerald forests, hunting, fishing, plus great local beer: It’s about time you explored Kodiak

KODIAK — There are a few patterns for travelers to see more of Alaska when they leave Anchorage. One well-worn path heads south to the Kenai Peninsula. The other points north, up to Denali and Fairbanks. The traffic peaks in the summer and falls off as the days get shorter.

But I'm sitting on a sun-washed deck in Kodiak overlooking the ocean as eagles glide in the wind and sea otters splash in the water. Sure, it's a little chillier, but you couldn't ask for a better day to explore Alaska's emerald isle.

About 400 people from Alaska's visitor industry descended upon Kodiak for an annual end-of-season meet-up. Were we prepared for rain? Sure. But the sunny day was a glorious exclamation point to a week an area that is decidedly off the beaten path.

"I love the low-angled light coming through the trees and the droplets on the leaves," said Marion Owen when asked about fall in Kodiak. "In the summer, the sun is so high — you just don't get the intense feeling of rich sunlight."

This is how a photographer thinks, of course. In addition to her photography work, Marion and her husband Marty Owen run the Cliff House bed and breakfast. It sits right on the ocean, and when I learned about our meeting in Kodiak last year I rented the whole house.

"We don't have the maple trees that leaf-peepers on the East Coast love," said Marion. "But the alpine meadows above the treeline change from lush green to shades of yellow, orange and red. It's amazing."

Travelers from Anchorage can fly either Ravn Alaska or Alaska Air nonstop from Anchorage. On Ravn, the cost is $109 each way. If you want to fly Alaska Air, it's a little more, $112 each way. Or, you can get a ticket for as few as 5,000 miles each way (with a 21-day advance purchase).

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Adventurers love Kodiak for several reasons. First, the fishing is spectacular. Kodiak is a year-round commercial fishing community, so the harbor is like the main street of town. "You don't have to go on a long boat ride before you're fishing here in Kodiak," said Marion. "In just 30 minutes, you can have your line in the water."

While it's possible to clean your own fish and pack them up for the plane ride, there is a processing house adjacent to the harbor. Most fishing boat captains just pull their boat up to the dock and offload the day's catch right there. Then, you can come back later and pick up your fish — all sealed up for travel.

In addition to deep-sea fishing for halibut, salmon, rockfish and cod, anglers can drive the road system to reach some great streams for salmon fishing — or cast from the beach directly into the saltwater. "It's easy to catch fresh pink salmon right from the beach. And although some people look down on pinks, they make for great eating when they're fresh from the sea," said Marion.

In fact, between the airport and downtown, you'll cross the Buskin River. There's a state park, where you can fish year-round. But watch for bears — because where there are fish, there are bears!

Hunters also frequent Kodiak, in search of the Sitka Blacktail Deer. "The floating lodges start arriving in September," said Marion. Companies like Ninilchik Charters and Alaska Coastal Marine park boats offshore and shuttle hunters back and forth by air.

Hikers, bikers and kayakers love Kodiak. Near downtown Kodiak, there are several islands, bays and coves that are popular with kayakers. Or, some kayak operators offer water taxi transport to more remote areas. Discover Kodiak, the local visitors' bureau, is a good resource to find a good operator.

Me and my business cohorts were set up in a trade show at the Best Western Kodiak Inn for our meeting. Outside, the clouds had moved in and it was raining slightly. It was pretty typical weather for Kodiak. But then the sun came out, streaming through the windows of the meeting room. "Let's go," I said to my business partner, Gary Blakely. This was my fourth or fifth trip to Kodiak, but it was Gary's first. And it was a glorious day for a hike.

We hopped in the car and drove north for about five or six miles to Fort Abercrombie State Historical Park. In World War II, much of the war effort in the North Pacific, including the Aleutian Islands, was directed from this outpost. Now, a few bunkers remain, but it's reserved as one of Kodiak's favorite hiking areas. There are stunning views of nearby islands, as well as hikes through lush, moss-covered forests. If you look closely at the trail, you'll see patches of cream-colored soil. It's actually leftover ash from the giant Novarupta volcanic explosion in 1912 across Shelikof Strait on the Alaska Peninsula. It's an indication of just how little soil is available on Kodiak.

If we had a little more time, we could have turned the car to the south, heading to Chiniak and Pasagshak Bay. It's a longer drive, but there also are dramatic vistas where you can look across Women's Bay (home to the nation's largest U.S. Coast Guard base) to Pillar Mountain. You really can't miss this big mountain, since there are several windmills at the top. Those windmills provide much of the power needed to run the city.

To learn more about Kodiak's history, including precontact and its Russian American history, visit the Alutiiq Museum  and the Baranov House. Both museums are right downtown, about a block from the ferry dock. You also can take the ferry over from Homer to Kodiak. Walk-on passengers are $85 one-way.

As conventioneers, we had to be fueled up. I think the best coffee in town is served by Harborside Coffee & Goods, located right by the harbor at 210 Shelikof Street. Just down the street is one of my favorite craft breweries, Kodiak Island Brewing. Owner Ben Millstein has a wide variety of beers. My favorite is the North Pacific Ale. But others love the Night Watch Porter.

A standout dining option is the Kodiak Hana Restaurant. It's also known as the "Old Powerhouse," since it's on the water where the oil-burning powerhouse used to be, at 516 E. Marine Way. There's a nice deck for summertime dining. Fishing boats and the ferry sail right by (within 100 feet). And while the view is interesting, it's the fresh fish dishes that are noteworthy. Whether it's a classic sushi roll or a dish of raw sashimi tuna, you'll enjoy some of the freshest catch—right from the harbor next door.

Plan now for a trip to Kodiak. Bring your rain gear (including your rain pants) just in case. But be prepared to be amazed by the natural beauty of Alaska's emerald isle.

Scott McMurren is an Anchorage-based marketing consultant, serving clients in the transportation, hospitality, media and specialty destination sectors, among others. Contact him by email at zoom907@me.com. You can follow him on Twitter (@alaskatravelGRM) and alaskatravelgram.com. For more information, visit alaskatravelgram.com/about.

Scott McMurren

Scott McMurren is an Anchorage-based marketing consultant, serving clients in the transportation, hospitality, media and specialty destination sectors, among others. Contact him by email at zoom907@me.com. Subscribe to his e-newsletter at alaskatravelgram.com. For more information, visit alaskatravelgram.com/about.

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