Downtown hot spot Tequila 61 promises traditional Mexican -- with some eye-catching innovations

I visited Tequila 61 earlier in the summer while on a search for the city's best margarita. Their classic version of the cocktail earned them a perfect 10 out of 10, so I was excited to return to try their inventive fusion menu. While Anchorage boasts some excellent Mexican eateries, this new downtown hot spot, self-described as a "Mexican Gastropub" promises traditional Mexican flavors with a twist. And since it also promises more of those excellent margaritas, I waited until cocktail hour and then grabbed my daughter for a mid-week dinner.

Tequila 61’s margaritas earned top marks during a previous visit. (Mara Severin)

Tequila 61 has one of my favorite dining rooms in town. Sleek yet comfortable, chic yet whimsical ("a little bit steampunk" said my daughter), sophisticated yet playful. Metallic chairs gleam against dark, rustic wood tables. Industrial light fixtures illuminate red brick accent walls and a dramatic white bar flanked by nautical figureheads. The color palette is subdued but huge windows flood the room with light. It's a well-thought-out space with an impressive attention to detail. It's a space that inspires confidence in the kitchen.

The menu is similarly eclectic. Ranging from simple, straightforward Mexican fare like tacos and chicken mole to more whimsical dishes like "sashimi tapas" with salmon and blueberry cream cheese, and Thai rolls stuffed with duck confit.

We ordered a couple of classic dishes — carnitas a la Mexicana tacos ($12) and carpaccio ($14) and one of the more creative offerings — the Rosa tartar ($14), which comes topped with a "rose-petal foam." Who can resist a rose-petal foam? Not us, apparently.

The tacos delivered on traditional Mexican flavors. These are a sincere and authentic affair. Slow-cooked, shredded pork, accented with a generous handful of fresh, grassy cilantro and spiked with tangy (and beautifully pink) pickled onions are nestled into a tender corn shell. A deeply peppery and smoky dipping sauce creates a perfect mouthful.

The carpaccio is a very traditional execution of the classic. The menu describes a four-pepper and lime glaze but, to be honest, I didn't discern it against the bold flavor of the balsamic vinegar. But the beef is sliced beautifully thin, and the peppery arugula and a generous quantity of bright and fragrant capers (my favorite aspect of carpaccio) all add up to a satisfying dish.

The Rosa tartar at Tequila 61 is beautiful, but a few edits short of perfection. (Mara Severin)

So much for the straightforward part of our meal. With the Rosa tartar, things got downright silly. And I was surprised to find that the foam wasn't the silliest thing on the plate.

First things first. The dish is beautiful. A tricolor tower of tuna, mango and avocado, this stacked appetizer is a monument to impressive knife skills. The mango is diced into a remarkably precise brunoise. The tuna poke is glistening and appetizing. The avocado is a bright and vibrant green. However. The mango itself was seriously underripe, which meant that it had very little sweetness and also had an unpleasantly crunchy texture against the tenderness of the fish. The avocado, while fresh and creamy, was underseasoned (perhaps unseasoned?) and bland. This is an example of style over substance. That said, the poke itself was delicious — silky with a subtle undertones of sesame. And the pale pink, bubbly foam melted in slowly, lending the fish an aromatic, herbal flavor that was intriguing without being overpowering. I would have been perfectly happy with a simple bowl of the tuna with a few chips. In other words, this dish needs editing.

Redemption came with the tamarind shrimp ($25). Plump shrimps and charred asparagus are wrapped thickly in crisp, smoky bacon, and rest in a pool of plummy, tangy tamarind sauce. The sauce is just kicky enough to balance the salt and smoke of the bacon. I was less excited by the risotto. It was a bit dry and sticky. (Too much cheese, perhaps? Is that even possible?) Given the richness of the protein, I would have preferred a lighter side dish — plain steamed rice or even a small green salad would have provided better balance on the plate. But this is a minor complaint — I would order this dish again in a heartbeat and would request some bread to mop up the deliciously fruity sauce.

I returned a week later for drinks and snacks with a friend at the bar. We ordered the duck al pastor tacos ($13), the popcorn shrimp ($15) and the "sushi mignon" ($17).

The popcorn shrimp was a surprise. I was expecting a crispy, breaded shrimp dish, but this was a sweet and sticky one. The honey chipotle glaze was tasty but resembled an Asian sesame dish more than anything Mexican. The accompanying ginger "foam" was an unnecessary bit of pretension. It was difficult to dip into it and, once you succeeded, it didn't provide much flavor. Worst of all, the translucent foam sitting on a white plane looked, frankly, unappetizing. Again, this is a dish that would benefit from editing.

The sushi mignon at Tequila 61 is complicated — but in a good way. (Mara Severin)

But less is not always more. The sushi mignon is a complicated dish but not unnecessarily so. Thinly sliced, well-seasoned beef is wrapped around a cream cheese, asparagus and avocado filling. A creamy chipotle salsa lends a hint of spice. It's decadent, well constructed and addictive. My friend and I scrapped over the last perfect little bite.

With the duck al pastor tacos, I've saved the best for last. The most delicious dish of either visit, it's one of the best things I've eaten all year. The duck is rich, savory, tender and perfectly seasoned. A perfect little slice of grilled pineapple brings a thoughtful element of sweet/tart freshness to the fatty richness of the meat. The tacos come three to a plate and my friend and I went through the trouble of messily splitting the last one because neither of us were willing to give up our full portion. Greed is good. So are these tacos.

Tequila 61 is an old soul with young ideas. Despite the occasional bit of foamy tomfoolery, I admire their commitment to elevate, innovate and beautify the food on their plates. And when the art on the plate translates to the flavors on your palate, Tequila 61 really shines.